Lessons from a fortnight in Goa!
A while back a minister in the Goa government said this:
“Today we have almost six times population of Goa coming as tourists. Those tourists are not top-end tourists, they are also the scum of the earth. Are they responsible? They are not. If you compare Goans to rest of India, we are high in per capita income, social and political consciousness, we are much superior to people who are coming in. Those people, how you will control (them)? Can you control them?. We could control them at one point in time. But we jumped the Russians… We decided to put all eggs in one basket. The British have gone away. And, now we are dependent upon the north Indians and this is what they do. They are not bothered about Goa. They want to recreate Haryana in Goa,” Vijai Sardesai, Minister in the Goa Government.
After spending a fortnight in Goa talking to people, here's my take.
A photograph of someone's lovely caricature printed in a restaurant menu
Goa is a major tourist magnet in the country. But unlike other tourist attractions, Goa has something different from other places.
Casinos, beaches, cheap alcohol, zero moral policing (unlike other states) and an economy which depends heavily on tourism. All this leads to a molotov cocktail ready to be ignited at a moment's notice!
India is by and large still a very orthodox country. In a lot of places women are pushed down in the name of 'culture'! Goa being a major trading port had a lot of people from different cultures visiting. The role of the Portuguese only added to the westernised outlook of the locals. As such the state of Goa is far more liberal than the rest of the country.
But tourists from the rest of the country visit Goa. Six times the population of the state are visiting Goa annually as per the minister. This is bound to cause friction, especially when the cultures are so diverse.
In Goa, you will often see female tourists roaming around alone in hot pants and short skirts. Having a drink at a bar. Entering practically any sort of public establishment without fear of guys misbehaving. They feel free and safe.
The male tourists on the other hand go absolutely nuts seeing women. And seeing them being so casual. When they hit the beaches and see a few blondes in bikinis, that is practically the last nail in the coffin. The cheap and easy availability of alcohol, ensures that the majority of these guys end up drinking much more than they can handle. Alcohol and skin makes them a bunch of drooling, lecherous, rabid arseholes! These wonderful gents get half the country labelled as scum. The label is accurate for these guys, but not to be generalised with an entire community!
Same caption as above!
So why doesn't the state toughen up on these arseholes?
Money. The state is dependant on tourism. If the establishment clamps down too harshly, they might just throw the baby out with the bathwater. And they cannot take that risk.
As the minister pointed out, the upper class of tourists do not visit Goa all that much now. Thailand and many other destinations in South East Asia work out as cheap as Goa for the 5 star traveller. Since a lot are traveling for snob value, to 'show' others where they went. It makes perfect sense to spend that money in a foreign land. Domestic travel even their employees can afford!
This has ensured that the wealthier tourists are heading abroad and only the lower income groups are landing up here. Those and the weekend travellers from the big metro cities.
So what's the solution?
I don't know!
Beeeeeeeeeeeeer. Though not the brand I recommend. I prefer Kings
What does surprise me though
is that the same people who enjoy the freedom of being in Goa will go home and talk about the loose women, the decadent western culture, the alcohol flow. They will paint a picture of Goa as if it is just one rung below hell! They will also support right wing parties who want India to return to its tradition and culture. Which of course requires the suppression of women in society. Because they are the root of evil aren't they!
Should you visit Goa
Yes, absolutely. The food, culture, architecture, beaches, beer, babes and natural beauty are awesome. And well worth an experience. But go there knowing that there is a probability of bumping into some scum of the earth!
A stormy affair on the Baga beach
Goa is a all time favourite destination for any girl who love to roam around alone and it's really safe some people might peep at you but don't dare to comment or something.
This is real heaven for lonely escape a girl.
Thanks for giving a woman's perspective on traveling in Goa :)
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I have always heard it is quite beautiful there.
Many places in the states have problems with tourists and even the homeless.
If it is a seasonal place then when tourist seasons starts many residents leave. However, it looks like the weather is good in Goa year round.
It is pretty.
Whether the weather is good!
December to February is cool and nice. March is bearable. April and May are unbearable. It is super humid and hot. Like a steam bath.
June to August it rains incessantly. September the rain eases off. October and November it again improves.
Basically four months of niceness and 8 months of terrible!
I had no idea.. well it is beautiful.
I see much more here than a discussion of the tourist industry in Goa!
I like to hear about what other cultures think of our western ways. I suppose many see us as immoral and evil. What seems reasonable in the West is decadent elsewhere. You hint that the liberation of womankind is progressive.
I believe that adaptation of western ways by eastern cultures and the acceptance of the richness of eastern philosophy by those of us in the west is the natural evolution of civilization.
People resist change. Often violently. The radicalization of religion is a natural reaction to the evolution of modern society.
I think it is the death knell of radical doctrine and not a regression to the natural evolution of society.
Something familiar to all of those that cry immorality is the repression of women!
The ladies have much to contribute to their cultures. Societies where they enjoy their freedom benefit from their contributions.
This post opens so many avenues for discussion!
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Thank you :) whale vote or not, i enjoyed reading your comment.
Women are half the population. And if they are suppressed, then you are killing half the productivity. With the gradual increase of women in positions of power, things are improving and men are resisting that change. But it isn't just the east vs west.
Guess which developed country has never had a woman as the leader of their country! India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka have all had women presidents, prime ministers, state leaders.
Though coming from a developing country (in terms of the position of women in society) one has to be doubly aggressive with the charge to bring about overall equality for women. Gender stereotypes are the first thing that needs to be dismantled.
Since i spend much of my time on the road, i bring an everyday example from the road. If we see a bad male driver, we call him a fool. But when a female driver is bad, we label them all with, 'oh women drivers, what do you expect.'
Ha! You are absolutely correct! Stereotyping is worldwide!
I think the US will have a woman president soon. I hope she will be like Margaret Thatcher, I liked her.
I was in Goa about 20 years ago. I'd be interested (and probably horribly saddened) to see what it has become now. Back then Anjuna(?) was the party destination, full of raves and Brits/Aussies. But the rest of it was really quiet and cruisey. The phenomenon is probably no different to any hotspot, I guess. Byron Bay in Australia is like that. Was so cruisey and laid back 25 years ago, but now is a tourist mecca. And despite living only 30 minutes up the road from Byron, I haven't been there for years. The quest for money has ruined the place..
As you say, a tourist spot becoming more touristy is the march of time. That is understandable and expected.
In this case it is a bit more of a clash of cultures between the hosts who depend on the income generated from the guests.
Essentially the Goans want to 'friendzone' most of their visitors! In this case, "I like your money but not your style!"
Hahaha :)