Rovinj: There is more than Adriatic sea, the most beautiful sunset
A long time ago read an English travelogue online, the title is "Adriatic Sea, the most beautiful sunset." The article with a very catchy eye diagram, I saw a castle just like a color like the ancient city suspended in a silky smooth sea, behind it, a red sunset is slowly sinking into the sea. I quickly turn down to see names, remember a name, Rovinj.
At first glance, I thought it was an Italian city. No, the clock tower propping up the skyline of the city is a mini version of the Venetian clock tower. Those seaside colorful houses, but also has a thick Italian style. On the map of Italy along the Adriatic coast for a long time, did not see this place, a search, hey, people are Croatian sites.
In fact, my intuition is not wrong. Rovinj's history has a deep roots in Italy. Rovinj was originally an island off the coast of the Adriatic Sea. In the 4th century it was under the rule of Rome and after the partition of Rome, it belonged to the territory of the Eastern Roman Empire that was the Byzantine Empire in the 6th century. From 1283 to 1797, Rovinj became the most important commercial city of the Republic of Venice in the ISTRIA region. In 1763, people reclaimed land and connected it to the land. This period, Rovinj is also the most glorious era of history. A long walk in Europe found a law, no matter in which country a city, as long as they dare to claim "historically important city of the Republic of Venice," there is absolutely nothing to be missed. After all, the republic, which has a thousand years of vertical and horizontal alignment with the Mediterranean, has a really impressive and wonderful history.
When Napoleon ruined the dream of the millennium in Venice, he naturally became Rovinj's master a short time. After the Austro-Hungarian Empire until a war. From 1918 to 1947, Rovinj became Italian territory again. After World War II, became a member of Yugoslavia, until Croatia's independence. So far, Rovinj's official language is bilingual in Croatian and Italian, and the daily language of local people is more unique, it seems that everyone has a different language habits, a sentence often starts in Italian, Istrian dialect continue , Finally ended in Croatian, the middle of trouble is not good but also emerge a German vocabulary. A short sentence, concentrated the ancestors in the long river walk through the changing situation.
I naturally saw a perfect sunset at Rovinj. From Caixia sky to the last sun into a round of fiery pure orange red "salted egg yolk", and then slowly become more red, darker, and gradually into the distant sea level, and the image of the ancient city from the overflowing Color to the ethereal ethereal, that process is like a gorgeous curtain call. Unfortunately, this time I travel light, camera and lens are borrowed, there is no telephoto nor the filter, can not truly reproduce that beautiful picture.
No good photos can not take any good regret, deep in memory of the beautiful picture who also do not take. Moreover, the vast majority of tourists are quietly sitting on the side of the pier, while enjoying the aperitif of the sunset, that leisurely or even make me feel like holding a camera running around a little "shameful."
Rovinj said that the most touching sunset, but in my opinion, it is always beautiful
Windy and sunny morning, sky blue to wash your eyes, colorful houses reflected in the mirror of the sea, the seagull's tweets echoed in the small pier over. Hard-working fishermen have come back to the sea, finishing the day's harvest; to fishing for the Father did not hesitate to settle in the dockside little Mazar, throwing bait, he is not fishing for fish, is full of calm and fun day. This Rovinj is not beautiful?
Showers noon, rolling sky with a thick cloud, but also bring out the gorgeous architecture of the Old City, the tower of the church upright, like an ink painting. Rovinj at this time is not beautiful?
The owner of the apartment I stayed in highly recommended I see the sunset to the seaside of Forest Park south of the ancient city. The results of my character problems about it, that sunny day even to the evening to rain. That moment, the sky, between the light and the light, water, between crystal-like transparency and jade-like warmth over, connected by the Tianshui, between the subtle bluish-green hues, while the colorful city like A mythical castle floating on the water, detached, calm, the United States seems not really like. This dream of Rovinj at sunset is even more reverie.
After the perfect sunset in the ancient city, Chinese lanterns early, warm and romantic.
Dusk is coming, the United States was mysterious, quiet.
Rovinj is such an all-time beauty that it is no wonder that it has overwhelmed the famous cities such as Dubrovnik and Split more than once and has won the title of "Croatian Tourist Champion" from the Ministry of Economy of Croatia.
Of course Rovinj's best spot is the Old Town. There are seven gates in the old city and three are still reserved today. This is one of them. The door has the sign of Venice, the bosom of the Bible with its winged lions.
The city is the most important square Rovinj, Bell Tower also has the statue of the flying lion in Venice, the surrounding buildings are also Italian-style.
This is the Church of St. Euphemia, the highest point in the Old City, where its belfry makes the outline of the Old Town a perfect one. (Think of the plainness of the entire Old Town without this clock tower.) ST.EUPHEMIA was a very young woman from the 4th century AD who was persecuted for believing in Christianity and was said to have been convicted Stormed, but did not burn, and later sentenced to feed the lion, the lion killed her but she did not eat her. Her church remains in this church. My landlord said that the bell tower of the St. Euphemia church is the best place to watch the sunset in the city. Unfortunately, when I went to the tourist season is not yet, the clock tower is not open.
The old town is full of a relaxed and relaxed atmosphere. This little girl who is drawn as a kitten and a little brother who is playful and talkative is a small tourist who is going to vacation with their parents to see how happy they are!
The old town of Rovinj is made up of many alleyways, quaint, clean and can be painted everywhere. Alley are stone paving. I have seen many flat stone roads, most of which are of relatively short history. I have also seen many stone paths that were very polished on the surface of old age. And Rovinj's stone road unusual, those slate looks very old, in the years of Moxibustion seems to have a layer of pulp, but very smooth and solid. Coupled with the stone has always been beige, it is extremely smooth and moist, no matter the glow of the charming day and night light. This is simply the combination of Italian aesthetic and German-style construction quality!
In the night, the alley is more profound and quiet, the shimmering stone road is more attractive. Always looking forward to, with the back of the story, leaving charming footsteps here.
In fact, the old town has been very commercial, there are many bars and souvenirs souvenir shop. The decoration of these shops are elegant and understated, with the atmosphere of the ancient city is very harmonious, without any hot eye elements, but to the alley added a lot of fun little mood. The prices here are much lower than in Italy. I stayed for three nights and all the seafood I had was cheap and cheap. The last night listened to the landlord's recommendation went to a called SNACK BAR RIO (not related to the map), just picturesque at the small wharf, there are fishermen playing fish that day, the taste is very delicious. RISTORANTINO is also on the door of the hotel, meaning "small hotel" in Italian, with only 28 seats, so although I do not have to book when it is not in high season, and I eat a lot of people in half And so on, so I helped to enjoy even the dessert did not eat pay seat to an Italian couple.
If you live in an apartment with kitchen, you can also go to the market square on the sea north of the Old Town. Those fresh fruits and vegetables in the Mediterranean sunshine is particularly bright and charming. I have a little regret not set with a kitchen accommodation. Finally could not help but buy a small bottle of olive oil truffles, 18 euros, a few stops behind the kitchen, you can enjoy the United States and the United States.
If only the old city, Rovinj can count as a beautiful sightseeing. The FOREST PARK GOLDEN in the southern part of the Old Town made me feel that it was a place to stay for a long time. Forest Park covers an area of 90 hectares, spread along the long bay. The forest is rich in vegetation, there are many unique flowers. The water in the bay is pure and transparent, there are swimming pools and bars in the seaside, sun loungers for sun reading, pathways for walking and cycling, and lawns for yoga ... On the top of the park "Golden Cape", a unique shape of the pink cliff, when I went there, there are two dozen German-speaking rock climbers are climbing. The youngest of them looks only about ten years old, and the movements are very sophisticated. The landlord said that this forest park bay is also the best place to see the sunrise, but this time encountered a shower, hope next time, where you can do a set of yoga, and then hold the book sit quietly waiting for sunset red sea.
When the weather is warm, there is an activity worth a try. At dusk, the small pier near the Old City has tourists taking boats to the sea to watch the sunset. The boat will pass a string of islands in an hour and it takes about an hour. The tickets are very cheap. The reason I did not try this time because I did not wear enough clothes. Spring Rovinj great temperature difference between day and night, at noon to wear shirts are hot, and so the sun down the mountain cold, cold to what extent it, a lot of restaurants in the small pier to provide blankets to patrons dressed in eating, ha ha ha.
Finally recommend me to live this APARTMENTS & ROOMS LA CASA BARBARO, located at the entrance to the Old City, the renovated old house, elegant profile, extremely clean. The apartment is close to coach station, supermarket, beachfront, old town, everything is convenient. ALAN is a very warm and generous host. If you drive, he will recommend free parking outside your city. He then drives you to bring luggage to the apartment. If you take the bus, he will pick you up at the station. He will recommend you to the scenery and taste good bars, restaurants, tell you where fun, tell you how to change money and cost, with his name to the city a shop rent a bike but also discount it!
很久以前在网上看过一片英文游记，标题是“亚德里亚海上最美的日落”。文章配图极抓眼球，只见一座宛若彩色城堡般的古城悬浮于丝缎般平滑的海面上，在它身后，一轮殷红的落日正缓缓沉入大海。我赶紧往下翻看地名，记住了一个名字， 罗维尼（ROVINJ）。
罗维尼：不止有亚德里亚海上最美的夕阳
第一眼，我以为这是座意大利城市。不是吗，那撑起了整座城市天际线轮廓的钟塔完全就是威尼斯钟塔的迷你版嘛。那些海边五颜六色的房子，也有着浓浓的意大利风情。 在意大利地图上沿着亚德里亚海岸看了半天， 没看到这地方啊，一搜，嗨，人家是克罗地亚的地盘。
其实我的直觉并没有错。罗维尼的历史与意大利有很深的渊源。罗维尼原本是亚德里亚海东岸的一个靠近海岸的岛屿。公元四世纪时，它在罗马的统治下， 东西罗马分裂后，它在六世纪归于东罗马帝国也就是拜占庭帝国的版图。 1283年至1797年间，罗维尼成为威尼斯共和国在伊斯特拉（ISTRIA）地区最重要的商贸城市，1763年人们填海修路把它和陆地连接了起来。这段时期，也是罗维尼历史最辉煌的年代。在欧洲逛久了发现一条规律，一座城市不管在哪个国家，只要敢自称“历史上曾是威尼斯共和国的重要城市”，就绝对有看头。毕竟，那个纵横地中海长达一千年的共和国有着实在太骄人太奇葩的过往。
当拿破仑葬送了威尼斯的千年好梦， 他自然也短时间成了罗维尼的主人。之后是奥匈帝国直到一次大战。1918到1947年，罗维尼又成了意大利的领土。二战之后，成了南斯拉夫的一员，直到克罗地亚独立。至今，罗维尼的官方语言是克罗地亚语和意大利语双语制， 而当地老百姓的日常语言更为独特，似乎每个人都有不同的语言习惯，一句话往往从意大利语开始，伊斯特拉方言继续，最后以克罗地亚语结束，中间闹不好还会冒出一个德语词汇。短短的句子里，浓缩了祖辈们在岁月长河里走过的变化风云。
我自然是在罗维尼看了一场完美的日落的。从彩霞满天到最后太阳变成一轮褪尽火气的纯净的橙红色“咸蛋黄”，然后慢慢变得更红，更暗， 渐渐没入远方的海平面， 而古城的形象也从流光溢彩到沉静空灵， 那过程就像一次华美的谢幕。可惜我这次出行轻装上阵，相机和镜头都是借来的，没有长焦也没有滤镜，无法真实再现那样美丽的画面。
拍不到好照片也没什么好遗憾的， 深刻于记忆的美好画面谁也拿不走。而且，绝大多数游客都静静地坐在小码头边，一边品着开胃酒一边欣赏日落， 那份悠然自得甚至让我觉得自己抱着个相机跑来跑去简直有点“可耻”。
都说罗维尼日落时最动人， 可在我看来， 它无时不美。
风和日丽的清晨，天蓝得可以洗眼睛， 五颜六色的房子倒影在如镜的海面上， 海鸥的鸣叫回响在小码头上空。 勤劳的渔民已经出海归来，整理着一日的收获； 以垂钓为乐的老爷子才不慌不忙在码头边安顿好小马扎，甩出鱼饵， 他钓的不是鱼，是充满平静乐趣的一天。 这样的罗维尼不美吗？
骤雨将至的中午，漫天翻滚着浓重的阴云，更衬托出老城的建筑色彩之斑斓，教堂钟塔的挺拔， 宛如一幅浓墨重彩的油画。 此时的罗维尼难道不美吗？
我入住的公寓的主人强烈推荐我到古城南边的森林公园的海边看夕阳。结果大概我人品问题吧，那个阳光明媚的日子偏偏到了黄昏要下雨了。那一刻，天，在亮与不亮之间过度， 水，在水晶般的通透与翠玉般的温润之间过度， 天水相连，在微妙的蓝绿色调之间过度， 而五色斑斓的古城犹如一座神话中的城堡漂浮在水面上，超然，淡定，美得仿佛不像真的。这样的罗维尼比落日时的更梦幻更令人遐想。
完美落日之后的古城，华灯初上，温馨浪漫。
细雨将至的黄昏，美得神秘、沉静。
罗维尼是这样无时不美，难怪它曾经不止一次战胜过大名鼎鼎的杜布罗夫尼克和斯普利特等城市，从克罗地亚经济部手中拿到了“克罗地亚旅游冠军”的头衔。
罗维尼最精华的地方当然是老城区。 老城曾有七座门，如今还保留三座，这是其一。门上有威尼斯的标记，踩着圣经的长着翅膀的狮子。
城门边是罗维尼最主要的广场，钟楼上也有威尼斯的飞狮雕像， 周边建筑也都是意大利式。
这是老城最高处的ST. EUPHEMIA教堂，就是它的钟楼让老城的轮廓线变得完美。（ 想想如果没有这钟楼， 整个古城的轮廓有多么平淡........） ST.EUPHEMIA是公元四世纪一位非常年轻的女子，因为信仰基督教而被迫害， 据说她曾被判火刑，却烧不死， 后来又被判去喂狮子，狮子咬死了她却没有吃她。 这座教堂里还保存着她的遗物。 我的房东说， ST. EUPHEMIA教堂的钟楼是全城看夕阳最棒的地方。可惜我去的时候还不是旅游旺季，钟楼不开放。
老城里充满一种轻松悠闲的气氛。这画成小猫的美少女们和嬉戏谈心的小哥俩都是跟着家长来度假的小游客，看他们多么 自在开心！
罗维尼老城由许多四通八达的巷子组成， 古雅，干净， 到处都可以入画。 小巷都是石板铺路。我曾见过许多平整的石板路，那大多是历史比较短的； 我也见过很多年代久远表面磨得很光的石板路，那路面大多坑坑凹凹了。而罗维尼的石板路与众不同， 那些石板看上去很老了，在岁月的摩挲下仿佛有了一层包浆，却非常平整稳固。加上用的石头本来就是米色的，显得格外光洁润泽，无论白天夜晚都泛着迷人的光。这简直就是意大利式的审美与德国式的施工质量的完结合啊！
到了夜里，小巷更加深邃幽静， 石板路的光泽也更加迷人。 总让人期待，有带着故事的背影，在这里留下迷人的脚步声。
其实老城区已经很商业化了，有很多酒吧饭店和工艺品纪念品店。 这些店的装修都雅致低调，跟古城的气氛很和谐，绝无任何辣眼睛的元素，反而给小巷里添加了很多小趣味小情调。 这里的物价比意大利低得多，我住了三个晚上，吃的几顿海鲜都价廉物美。 最后一晚听了房东的推荐去了一家叫SNACK BAR RIO的（与上图无关）， 就在小码头边风景如画处，有渔民当天打的鱼， 味道非常鲜美。 这家饭店的门上还写着RISTORANTINO， 在意大利语里是“小饭店”的意思， 只有28个座位，所以虽然我去的时候不是旺季都需要预定，而且我吃到一半就有不少人等位置，于是我助人为乐连甜点都没吃就买单让座给一对意大利情侣了。
如果你住的是带厨房的公寓， 还可以去老城北边靠海的广场上的集市去采购。那些新鲜的瓜果蔬菜在地中海的阳光下显得格外鲜亮迷人。我都有点后悔没订带厨房的住处了。最后忍不住买了一小瓶橄榄油泡的松露片， 18欧元， 后面几站有厨房，就可以美美享用了。
如果只有老城， 罗维尼最多算一个漂亮的观光点。 而老城南部的“金海角森林公园” （FOREST PARK GOLDEN) 则是让我觉得这是一个可以住下来呆很久的地方。 森林公园占地90公顷， 沿着长长的海湾铺开。森林里植被丰富，有很多有特色的花草。海湾里的水纯净通透， 海边有游泳场、酒吧， 有可以晒太阳看书发呆的躺椅，有可以徒步和骑车的小路， 有可以做瑜伽的草坪......在公园顶上的“金海角”， 有造型独特的粉色悬崖，我去的时候，有二十几个说德语的攀岩爱好者正在攀岩。其中最小的一个看上去才十岁左右，动作却非常熟练老到。房东说这个森林公园的海湾也是看日出最棒的地方， 可惜这次遇到了阵雨， 希望下一次，可以在那里做一套瑜伽，然后抱本书坐一下午静静等待晚霞染红海湾。
等到天暖的时候，还有一项活动很值得一试， 黄昏时候老城边的小码头有船带游客出海看日落， 小船会经过附近一串岛屿，用时一个小时左右，船票挺便宜。我之所以这次没尝试是因为衣服没穿够。春天的罗维尼昼夜温差很大，正午穿衬衫都热，等太阳一下山就冷了，冷到什么程度呢，小码头边不少饭店都提供毛毯给食客披着吃饭，哈哈哈。
最后推荐一下我这次住的APARTMENTS & ROOMS LA CASA BARBARO，位于老城入口处，重新装修过的老房子，简介雅致，极度干净。 公寓靠近长途汽车站、超市、海滨、老城， 什么都很方便。主人ALAN非常热情豪爽，如果你开车来，他会推荐你城外的免费停车点，然后他开车把你连人带行李运到公寓， 如果你乘公交，他会去车站接你。他会给你推荐风景和味道俱佳的酒吧、饭店，告诉你哪儿好玩，告诉你怎么换钱划算，用他的名字到城里一家店租自行车还能打折呢！