It is my land of idyllic beauty you do not know - Yaqing Temple/它是我的世外桃源——你不知道的亞青寺

In China Sichuan Baiyu County Changtai District Atchafalaya Township, a is a secluded place, in my eyes, there is a land of idyllic beauty Yaqing temple. Before I go to the temple of Asian Youth two years ago, is starting from Chengdu, was living in a hostel, check-out time, the little girl asked me to go to play.

I said to Seda and princeton. The other one, say they have to Seda special line but a little girl face Yaqing, Meng force, said they did not know nor listen to said. Sure enough, when I came here I found Yaqing, few visitors, compared to the color, there is almost no visitors what. The world is wide, the environment is elegant, people's life and practice are very quiet.
Is the usual 20000 Zaba Yaqing temple, Buddhist (Tibetan female to call nun), is a very influential Tibetan temple. The small box room, from thousands to more than 20000, is the practitioners to establish their own. But the government has built fire protection facilities.

Chang Qu River formed a small island, the island is the world's largest Buddhist region, the island is Zaba (male monks) district. Buddhist area of about 0.15 square kilometers, with water on three sides, gathered more than sleep. Both men and women do not disturb each other and have no connection in life.

Chang Qu River arranged in a crisscross pattern surrounding the temple buildings, every morning or in the evening, smoke filled the air, the shining gold, chanting of the wind coming from everywhere, strike a deep chord.

The Buddhist house broken broken, everyone around together. Never find a male monk to help. But living in the Buddhist area is only a minor boy, they are to follow sister or other female relatives to the monk. Although life is hard, but in the women's care, to be more of a warm than in other seasons, the temple.

If the home gas tank no gas, are Buddhist themselves carrying empty gas tank to change, and then back to install their own. In today's society, such women are called "female men". However, found in Buddhist on the female man's temperament and spirit is not only the back of the gas tank, and firewood. A coarse or a hundred years of wood are Buddhist who do it yourself. Sometimes, while they are in awe of their saints, they are inadvertently integrated into their lives, and it is also a particularly interesting experience.

Such a thick wood, a dozen or even around twenty Buddhist who together to give it to. In the alpine zone, a group of women to do such heavy work for some fellow male tourists feel sorry. But the Buddhist will never let us help, but if you want to experience it, they are still very happy. Don't know who is in Buddhism, or isolated for too long, whether it is still hanging Buddhist Zaba, smile on their face is what I see most pure. (compared to other local practitioners)

Women do men live, is also very deft. Have to admire their life and practice. The position is the ultimate remote Yaqing temple. After driving to this, found around an empty, vast world, the only such a temple like like Baiwubai in radius. Because there is almost no tourists, not tourist attractions, in Yaqing temple outside the only one hotel, diet is vegetarian, no hot water bath, but every day with boiling water. Although the surrounding also started to build accommodation, but I was not finished at the time. I don't know what's going on now.

Sometimes, when we eat the hotel, also saw some practitioners to eat, but are generally Zaba, little sleep. However, there are also restaurants on the island, because many people are not very likely to take care of their lives. (many of the practitioners are very young, and come here with the general college students in the mainland), so after class, they often go to the restaurants on the island. The temple will be issued 300 yuan of money to each monthly Buddhist scriptu!)res "(the other relatives to supply).
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But as time goes on, the Buddhist are more capable, not only can practice, can live. However, as far as I know, many temples are local materials provided by the pilgrims, such as Buddhist wood wood. But in fact, they are not rich themselves, without a fixed brick and tile house, in tents on the side of the road. The owner of the hotel said that the local people never pursue the material and donate it to the monasteries. They have a very bitter life, but they are too happy and happy. This is a spiritual world that the ordinary people cannot understand and experience.

Every morning, they will and the temple and other Asian Youth Buddhist Pilgrims in the temple a huge Mani stone wall to. Prayer is their daily activities, the Mani stone wall, along with the establishment of the temple, in just a few years a little by the carved stone piled up scriptures. Of course, the porch will be transferred to the saints every day.

In Yaqing temple, sell supplies and small shops, but the area is a Buddhist nun, Zaba Zaba region is open, the price is too low and free items in general. Of course, there is also a vegetable market opened by Chengdu people outside the temple. There are two kinds of prices, one is the price to sell to the practitioner, the other is to sell to the average person. Naturally, the former is as cheap as it is. But the very strict rules of practice Yaqing, one of which is not into the store after dark, so every evening the most bustling place is a few sell vegetables and fruits store.
When we are seriously concerned about the Buddhist nun of firewood, but some are shy. Suddenly we feel rude, ready to leave, they will stop our enthusiasm, while wood while trying to chat with us, but most do not speak Chinese or Buddhist Chinese is not good. But surprisingly, the Buddhist temple inside Yaqing District, many from the north of Guangzhou occupation women, they quit the job and leaving the family and homeland, a monk to practice this.

Although the living conditions are extremely difficult, the traffic inconvenient materials are scarce. All this did not prevent a practitioner's footsteps, Han disciples also reached hundreds of people resident training. Although here the per capita density, poor housing, difficult conditions, but still try to keep their Buddhist temple to eat fresh vegetables.

My most memorable is to sleep together in prayer, of course, I am a spectator. Their local school is partitioned, the Yaqing Temple of dajingtang, is modeled on the famous "Wu Zi temple" temple monastery built in the shape of great momentum, consisting of 160 columns, all of which have profound meaning.


And here, there is a Buddhist all together chanting every day, sometimes one is half a day, from morning to afternoon are possible. Wait until noon, there will be other Buddhist are responsible for the delivery of food. In fact, they eat very simple.

And Buddhist who lived in "island" has two main bridge, a connecting seat is connected by the church, a mountain of practice. Every time after hearing about the class, they can only sleep from a bridge and go forward with great strength and vigour of them back to the island. But in the Buddhist life themselves on the roof of the house, or on the side of the mountain on their own will to build a small house, particularly small, usually white, which can only be sitting next to a nun.

Usually, this is their own exclusive practice place. For a hundred days of closed door practice, with extremely difficult living conditions for amending the law of the happy day in and day out. Outsiders (tourists) can't go to disturb. In this clean world, we have to take up our curiosity, not to disturb them, but not to infringe on the practice here.

In Asia, because the island is a Buddhist area, the island is Zaba region, so each practice is not the same place chanting. Zaba day also have classes for a long time, lunch time there may be other Zaba responsible for the delivery of food.

The temple by the church for Asian Youth class there are three to four, by dozens of temples on the division (weight class teacher) respectively, each other is divided into different camps. The temples also strictly distinguish between men and women in class. Although, in the Buddhist and Zaba class where visitors can see this, but only in the church, unless given permission, otherwise it can not enter.

There is a very important point is that male visitors can not enter the Buddhist life zone. To use an inappropriate metaphor is that a man can't break a woman's house. The Buddhist region is more like a daughter in secret.

Open class here is the real "public" class, first, you can see a small room inside the teacher, then can only sit on the grass, listening to the big horn far.
But in places outside their lives and practices, tourists (including men) can go. Here, although the natural scenery may not color, but it's not the tourist area, they do not need external interrupt. But as a tourist, to be able to come here is a supreme wealth for me. And, for the love of photography of people, scenery of the humanities color too yaqing. Although there are not many tourists, the outsiders usually here are basically photographers.

At the top of the mountain can not only see the whole Buddhist region, can also see the tall Padmasambhava, he is facing the Asian Youth temple.
There is a place, to me it is a paradise. Standing on the top of the hill, Padmasambhava in the behind, in front of the Asian Youth temple is a world with its river as the boundary, and the interpretation of the Buddhist Zaba shost.

If one day you come here, remember to put away his curiosity, the fear of heart to feel the natural and divine yaqing. Not because he is a photographer or taking pictures and other manners and behavior, it violates the life and practice here.

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在中國四川白玉縣昌台區阿察鄉境內，有一個可謂是與世隔絕的地方，它在我眼裡，是世外桃源般的存在——亞青寺。前年我去出發去亞青寺之前，是從成都出發的，當時住在一家青旅，辦理退房的時候，前臺的小姑娘問我準備去哪裡玩。

我說去色達和亞青。對方一愣，說他們有專門去色達的路線，但是關於亞青，小姑娘一臉懵逼，表示不知道也沒有聽聽說過。果然，當我來到亞青之後，我發現這裡遊客稀少，比起色達，這裡幾乎沒有什麼遊客。天地廣闊，環境優雅，人們的生活和修行十分平靜。

亞青寺現常住有兩萬余紮巴，覺姆（藏語女尊者以稱呼尼姑）為主，是藏區很有影響的大寺廟。小盒子房，從數千間到二萬多間，是修行者們自己建立的。但政府修建了防火設施。

昌曲河圍成一個小島，此島是世界最大的覺姆區，島外是紮巴（男僧）區。覺姆區面積約0.15平方公里，三面環水，聚集了萬多覺姆。男女各自修行，互不打擾，就連生活也不曾有絲毫聯繫。

縱橫交錯的昌曲河包圍了整個寺廟的建築群，每當清晨或黃昏，炊煙彌漫，河水閃耀著金光，頌經聲隨風遠遠傳來，猶如天籟，動人心弦。

覺姆們的房子破了壞了，都是大家圍在一起動手。絕對不會找男僧幫忙。但在覺姆區生活的男孩子只能是未成年的， 他們都是跟隨姐姐或者其他女性親戚來此出家。雖然生活條件艱苦，但在眾女性的關懷下，比在其他寺院的小僧人要多一份溫暖。

如果家裡的煤氣罐沒有氣了，都是覺姆們自己扛著空煤氣罐去換，然後再背回來自己安裝。在現在社會裡，這樣的女性都會被稱為“女漢子”。然而，在覺姆們上所發現的“女漢子”的氣質和精神不僅僅只是背煤氣罐，還有劈柴。一根粗得大概有上百年的木頭都是覺姆們自己動手。有時候，在敬畏她們修聖的同時，不小心融入她們的生活當中，發現這也是一件特別有趣的體驗。

這麼粗壯的木頭，十幾個甚至是二十個左右的覺姆們齊心合力才能把它給劈開。在高寒地帶，一幫女性做這樣的重活讓一些同行的男遊客感到過意不去。但覺姆們絕對不會讓我們幫忙的，但如果想體驗一下的話，她們還是很樂意的。不知道是一心在佛門，還是與世隔絕太久，不論是覺姆還是紮巴，他們的臉上所掛的笑容是我見到的最純淨的。（比起其他地方的修行者）

女人們幹起男人們的活，也是相當麻利的。不得不佩服她們的生活和修行。亞青寺的位置可謂是極致偏僻。自駕來此之後，發現周圍一片空曠，天地茫茫，恍如方圓百五百里只有這麼一個寺院似的。由於這裡幾乎沒有遊客，也並不是旅遊景區，在亞青寺外只有一家賓館，飲食都是素食，沒有熱水洗澡，但每天有開水提供。雖然周邊也開始建立住宿的，但我當時去的時候，還沒有完工。不知道現在怎麼樣了。

有時候，我們在賓館吃飯的時候，還會看見幾個修行者來吃飯，但一般都是紮巴，覺姆很少。不過，在島上也有餐館，由於不少人不太會料理自己的生活（很多修行者特別年輕，來到這裡就跟內地的大學生一般），所以下課之後，會經常去到島上的餐館裡吃飯。 寺廟會給每位覺姆每月發放300元左右的“念經錢”（其它的要親人供應）。

但隨著時間的推移，這些覺姆們會越來越能幹，既可以修行，也能生活。不過，據我所知，寺院不少物資都是當地朝聖者所提供的，比如覺姆砍柴的木頭。但實際上，他們自己並不富裕，沒有固定的磚瓦房子，都是住在公路邊上的帳篷裡。聽賓館老闆說，當地人從來不追求物質，一有錢就捐獻給寺院，自己過得特別苦，但又過得很自在幸福。這是常人無法理解和體驗的精神世界。

每天早上，他們會和亞青寺內的覺姆以及其他朝聖者在寺內一座巨大的嘛呢石經牆處轉經。轉經是她們的日常活動，這處嘛呢石經牆，伴隨著寺廟的建立，在短短數十年內一點點由刻著經文的石板堆積而成。當然，轉經廊每天都會有朝聖者在此轉經。

在亞青寺，還有賣生活用品的小商鋪，但覺姆區是覺姆們開的，紮巴區是紮巴開的，物品價格低得跟免費的一般。當然在寺院外面，還有一個成都人開的菜市場，裡面的價格分兩種，一種是賣給修行者的價格，一種是賣給普通人的價格。自然，前者便宜得跟送得一樣。但亞青修行的規矩非常嚴格，其中一條就是“天黑後不能進商店”，所以每天傍晚最熱鬧的地方，就是幾個賣蔬菜瓜果的商店。

當我們認真關注覺姆們劈柴的時候，覺姆們竟然有些害羞了。頓時我們感到失禮，準備離開的時候，她們熱情的將我們攔住，一邊砍柴一邊試圖和我們聊天，但大多數覺姆不會說漢語或漢語水準不好。但令人沒想到的是，這亞青寺的覺姆區裡頭，有不少來自北上廣的職業女性，她們辭掉工作，離開家人和故土，出家來此修行。

雖然生活條件極為艱苦，交通不便物資匱乏。可這一切並未能阻止有志實修者的腳步，常住修學的漢族弟子亦達幾百人。雖然這裡人均密度大、住房簡陋、條件艱苦，但是寺廟方面還是盡力保證覺姆們能吃到新鮮蔬菜。

令我最難忘的就是跟覺姆們一起上課念經，當然，我是個看客。她們上課的地方是分區的，其中亞青寺的大經堂，是仿照著名的桑耶寺主殿“鄔孜大殿”而建，外形氣勢磅礴，內有160根柱子組成，這一切都有著深遠的喻意。

而這裡，每天都有一場眾覺姆聚集在一起念經，有時候一念就是半天，從早上到下午都有可能。等到中午的時候，就會有其他覺姆們負責送飯菜過來。其實，她們吃的很簡樸。

出入覺姆們所住的“小島”主要有兩座橋，一座連接大經堂，一座連接修行山。每次聽完講課後，覺姆們只能浩浩蕩蕩地從其中的一座小橋回到島上。但在覺姆們自己生活的房子的屋頂上，或者是在山邊上都會自己再搭建一個小房子，特別小的，一般都是白色的，裡面只能坐得下覺姆一個人。

通常，這都是自己閉關修行的地方。進行為期百日的閉關修行，以極其艱苦的生活條件換取日以繼夜的修法之樂。外人（遊客）不能前往打擾。在這個清淨的世外桃源，我們要收起自己的好奇心，不能打擾到她們，更不能侵犯了這裡的修行。

在亞青，因為島內是覺姆區，島外是紮巴區，所以，彼此修行念經的地方也都不一樣。紮巴們每天也都有上課，時間也很長，到了午飯時間也有會有其他紮巴負責送飯菜過來。

亞青寺內用於上課的經堂主要有三到四個，由多達數十位的寺廟上師（有分量的老師）分別上課，互相之間分成不同陣營。寺廟在上課時也嚴格區分男女。雖然說，在覺姆們和紮巴們上課的地方，遊客可以來此觀望，但只能在經堂外，除非得到允許，否則不能踏入其內。

還有一點非常重要的是，男遊客不能進入覺姆的生活區。用一句不恰當的比喻就是—— 一個男人不能擅闖女人的住宅。而覺姆區更像是一個隱秘的女兒國。

這裡的公開課是真正的“公開”課，先來的，可以看到小屋子裡面的老師，後來的只能在草地上席地而坐，遠遠地聽著大喇叭。

但她們生活和修行之外的地方，遊客（包括男遊客）是可以前往的。在這裡，雖然自然風光也許比不上色達，但這裡不是旅遊觀光區，她們也不需要外界的打擾。可是作為一個旅遊愛好者，能夠來到這裡，對我而言是一種至高無上的人生財富。且，對於熱愛攝影的人而言，亞青的人文風光實在太出彩。儘管遊客不多，但通常來到這裡的外人基本上都是攝影愛好者。

在山頂上不僅可以看到整個覺姆區，還可以看到高大的蓮花生大師，他所面向的正是亞青寺。
　　有一個地方，對我而言它是一個世外桃源。站在山頂，蓮花生大師就在身後，眼前的亞青寺是一個世界，它以河為界，解讀了紮巴和覺姆的各自修聖。

如果有一天你來到了這裡，記得一定要收起自己的好奇心，以敬畏之心來感受亞青的神聖與自然。更不能因為自己是攝影師或要拍照之類的言行舉止，就侵犯了這裡的生活和修行。