Bosnia and Herzegovina travels #2 - Sarajevo (Baščaršija)

Much loved and favourited by many, the oldest part of town, known as Baščarsija, has been defying ravages of time for hundreds of years. Part of town where architectural influence of Ottoman empire remains almost unchanged for centuries, where Gavrilo Princip assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and his wife Sophie, which resulted in World War I. Part where time seems to stop and stand still, and where you are sure to gain some weight, provided you stay long enough.

Name Baščaršija means "the main market" and today it is the oldest bazaar and the historical and cultural centre of the city which doubles up as a main tourist attraction. Baščaršija was built in the 15th century when Isa-Beg Isaković, Ottoman general of Bosnian origin and one of Sultan's most trusted generals, founded the town. He ruled between 1450 and 1460 and was succeeded by Gazi Husrev-beg. Core of the city's old town was built around 1463 and it included old town district, mosque, closed marketplace, public bath, hostel and governor's house or Saray which gives city it's present name. Mosque built by Isa-beg was dedicated to his father Isak-beg whose name it still carries and it contained one of the first Islamic libraries in Europe.

OK,so you are in Baščaršija..now what?!

People who enjoy being transported centuries back in time will feel right at home in this place. If you like hidden jewels and a strong cup of coffee, try finding your way to Moriča han. Moriča han is an inn that dates back to 1551 and it's the only surviving han (roadside inn) in Sarajevo. In it's time it was was considered the biggest inn in Sarajevo because it could easily accommodate around 300 passengers and 70 horses (which was a big thing back in the 16th century when big hotels were not even a dream..and even today I seriously doubt they can accommodate 70 horses). It was a meeting-place for artisans, merchants and the learned, and the guild assemblies were held there. However...today there is a nice coffee place and restaurant. It's a bit hard to find because you have to go through the gates into the inner yard but the big plus is deep shade that is welcomed especially in hot summer days. If you are a coffee lover you should definitely try kahva (traditional coffee) but if you can function without caffein kick maybe try someting sweeter, like Salep (drink made of milk and dried orchis tubers that are ground into a fine powder which acts as a thickening agent..it's yumm).

As a self proclaimed coffee addict I always order bosnian kahva (not expresso or latte) because it's served in traditional way. Kahva is served in a džezva (a small pot that has wide, flared-out base)and drank from small ceramic cups called fildžan. Traditionally it's served with two or three sugar cubes, and with Turkish delight (ratluk) on the side. I love to take my time, sit down and do some people watching as they try to haggle for the best pricse for oriental rugs that are sold next to the han.

If Moriča han is first stop the next stop should be Sebilj (the most famous fountain in Sarajevo) where you can fill your bottle with fresh water... and yes, it is drinkable (you might have to share fountain with some pigeons though) .

And then? Well..you are in the market place - so shop away. I hate malls and this kind of shopping is the only kind of shopping I enjoy. This can take a while. Not because place is so big but because you will probably find a lot of little shops you will want to visit. You can watch how the fildžans or džezvas are made and even have them made especially for you, or how they make handmade jewelry.

Prices are usually fixed and not very high but you should should try and haggle a bit.
Very popular Sarajevo souvenirs include various copper products (such as džezva's, coffee sets, plates,..), handmade jewelry and leather bags, cases,...
If you are fan of winter olympics you should definitely invest in a t-shirt with Vučko on it. Vučko is wolf - mascot of the Olympic games that were held in Sarajevo in 1984 and it's still quite popular. So if you want something original that says "I was in Sarajevo", without actually saying "I was in Sarajevo", that's one of the options.

Usually when I'm done with looking for that one thing that I always seem to search for but never find (mainly because I don't really know what it is), I go to bezistan (market) and just walk around. It's not very big but it is interesting because it contains many small shops in one long tunnel (kind of a medieval mall I guess).

Famished?

Eating in Baščaršija is dream come true. Čevapčiči are all around favourite, closely followed by burek :). Bosnian cusine is amazing but more of that in some other post because once I start talking about food it will take a while. There is also a paradise for the ones with a sweet tooth and believe me, Bosnian sweets are sweet.

If you pass Sebilj fountain and cross the road out of the pedestrian zone you will be well on your way towards the oldest churches in Sarajevo. The Church of the Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel, also known as the Old Orthodox Church, is a Serbian Orthodox church. It was first mentioned in Ottoman sources dating to 1539 but the Church was, however, built on older fundations (it was supposed to date back to 13.century). The church is an outstanding architectural monument, and its interior is a treasure trove of extraordinary examples of woodwork and iconic art. It has a fifth most valuable collection of icons in the world and it's well worth a visit.

Baščaršija is not very big but it's very time consuming so one day in Sarajevo is usually not nearly enough if you want to see anything else. If I'm staying in the city for longer, I like to just join the crowds with their midday coffees, late afternoon shisha's and occasional evening beer. Enjoy and relax while watching people being busy, time passing by and history being made.