[PL] Polska wersja tutaj / Polish version here.
I like OpenStreetMap, for the idea of openness, and for maps details. I also like OsmAnd, because it's great navigation for this maps, both for main road, and for some off-road trails. And for the fact, that during the trip you can find some unknown places which otherwise you will never find.
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| Old Cossack cemetery |
Bessarabian roads
When I crossed Ukrainian Bessarabia to see steppes and limans, I found interested place in my navigation. It was Старое козацкое кладбище, meaning Old Cossack cemetery. So I decided to go there...
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| Road and alternative road |
Ukrainian roads are quite "specific", especially in the Bessarabian region, where the roadside is much better off that asphalt road. In many place the roadside has become an alternative route, allowed to drive at a dizzying speed of 30 km/h.
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| The name of the village means don't touch |
In contrast to the Akerman Steppes, here you could see the steppes interwoven with fields and places that looked like the world forgot about them.
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| Time has stopped here ... |
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| Eco breeding? |
Sasyk (Kunduk) Liman
We decided to "enter the steppe". The road led to the edge of the liman, which ends with a large cliff.
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| "Road" to Sasyk Liman |
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| Liman emerging above the steppe |
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| Cliff at the end of the steppe |
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| Cliff at the end of the steppe |
Old Cossack cemetery
Arriving at the destination I didn't know what to expect. I wondered why someone stressed that it is precisely the Cossack cemetery, not just Orthodox.
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| Cossack gravestones |
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| Steppe is also here |
Before I wrote this text, I made small web research about this cemetery. I found some info in Ukrainian Wikipedia and two newspaper articles (here and here ). According to Wikipedia, the cemetery dates from the 18th century and the oldest grave is from 1855. However, I have doubts about it, because I found a tombstone with the date 1704.
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| A grave older than Wikipedia says about 150 years? |
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| ? |
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| "Here lies the servant of God Vasily..." |
The cemetery is still used, on the other side there are already new graves.
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| In the distance a new part of the cemetery. |
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| Cossack gravestones |
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| Cossack gravestones |
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| Liman Sasyk, and Cossack gravestones |
The press articles that I found mainly addressed the ecological disaster that is taking place in Liman Sasyk. In the times of the USSR, liman was deprived of access to the sea, and an attempt was made to pump out salt water (flooding liman with fresh water - yes, Soviets...). It devastated the liman and increased the level of water which significantly accelerated the erosion of its banks. In this context, the cemetery was mentioned because it is estimated that around 100m of the cemetery has already fallen into the water.
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| Liman Sasyk, and Cossack gravestones |
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| Grave on the edge of the cliff |
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| Soon another grave will fall 20 meters down ... |
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| ... and next |
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| Not only tombstones are falling, buried bodies too / by Yuriy Kvach, CC BY-SA 4.0 |
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I like this kind of places.. where the time stands still.. I've been to Ukraine a few times and I kind of enjoyed these roads. It's not usual so for me it was an adventure. I can imagine that it's not that cool when you live there.
The cemetery is very old and I'm sorry to hear that it's falling into water.. what a shame..
Thank you for sharing!
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This post is so interesting. I've never been to the Ukraine and it's a bit of a mystery to me so I love seeing travel post from that area. I love old graveyards and this one is absolutely fascinating especially because it is so old and crumbling into the sea. What happens to all the bones they already decayed or do they end up in the sea as well. Thank you so much for sharing I really loved this post
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The Old Cossack cemetery definitely caught my attention, but unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to visit it yet. As for Ukrainian roads, they can be quite an adventure, especially in the Bessarabian region. I remember driving along one road and suddenly finding myself on a completely different path, as if the roadside had magically transformed into an alternative route. It was unexpected and added some excitement to the journey. Speaking of unexpected sights, I've been exploring Mausoleum Headstones lately, contemplating getting one for my dad. They have this timeless elegance that would be a fitting tribute.