A SYMPHONY for the SENSES! A journey of wonderful sights, sounds and smells on Viking River Cruises’ Danube Waltz itinerary

Budapest’s iconic Parliament Building lights up the night sky, its Renaissance-inspired dome and needle-like towers shimmering on the Danube. It is an opulent jewel in the city’s crown. Completed in 1904 and no longer with the Communist red star at its summit, the National Assembly (as it is also known) is best seen from the water, and as Viking Hermod sails towards Slovakia on day two of its magical Danube Waltz cruise, guests are out on deck to marvel at this feast for the eyes.

The Chain Bridge, where Viking Hermod moors to welcome guests for a sumptuous evening meal, is also stunning – another product of British artistry. Designed by civil engineer William Tierney Clark, it was finished in 1849, and unites historic Buda on the east bank and vibrant Pest to the west.

The Chain Bridge, Budapest

A more humble feature in front of the Parliament Building makes a powerful impression: 60 pairs of iron shoes appear strewn along the embankment. This is the Shoes on the Danube Bank, a monument to remember the 3,500 people, 800 of them Jewish, who were shot into the water by fascist Arrow Cross militiamen during World War II. Its poignancy isn’t lost on Viking Hermod’s guests and many of us stand and pay our respects.

For those wanting to know more, there’s an optional tour dedicated to Budapest’s Jewish history, one of many provided on this eight-day voyage of discovery.

The Danube Waltz itinerary is an epic journey filled with learning, a chance to discover extraordinary history, art, culture, architecture, cuisine, music and more at every turn.

In Budapest I spend an afternoon at the century-old Széchenyi thermal baths. There are 15 indoor baths and three outside. Its Baroque and Renaissance-inspired elegance is enchanting. It’s filled not only with swimmers and sun seekers relishing the spring warmth but also men playing chess in the water.

Cˇeský Krumlov’s medieval Old Town

It’s here that I’m first introduced to the rich musical heritage that flows through the Danube. On Andrassy Avenue, Franz Liszt’s Music Academy now houses his original manuscripts and instruments.

While musical notes entice our hearing, our sense of smell is captured by dark red, sweet paprika. We’re told that the rose variety is singled out as the best bet and said not to be as sharp as koenigspaprika or king’s paprika.

Back on board our Viking Longship we savour the most wonderful dinner: a starter of potato crusted mascarpone cheese, followed by Chateaubriand, and delicate bienenstich (bee sting) cake, with heavenly layers of almond sponge and cream.

A Viking Longship on the Danube

 The onboard food is a revelation, and the restaurant service is impeccable. Breakfast is particularly divine, with made-to-order egg dishes (the pancakes are incredibly good) always available. Lunchtime also offers a great opportunity for exceptional food in the restaurant or a more relaxed affair on the Aquavit Terrace where a buffet selection is available. Every day the dinner menu consists of exquisitely prepared dishes, offering local specialties, and again, there’s also a more casual option available.

After dinner we enjoy wonderful performances by local singers and musicians, and I’m impressed that Viking supports provincial artists along our route. They entertain us with tunes and songs from the countries we visit; and a sing-along from The Sound of Music in Austria proves particularly popular. Just like the name of the itinerary suggests, music is at the heart of this cruise. After Budapest our next port of call is the Slovakian capital Bratislava, known as the “City of Opera”. Mozart, Haydn, Beethoven and Rubinstein are all intertwined with its history here, and there’s a wonderful ambience around its castle as we visit, with two acrobats giving us an impromptu performance.

Salzburg, Austria, home of The Sound of Music

In Vienna, we immerse ourselves in classical rhythms and culture. This is where Johann Strauss II, known as the “King of the Waltz” lived and worked in the 19th century. It’s now 150 years since he catapulted the waltz to worldwide fame with his Blue Danube Waltz. Just in case we can’t quite grasp its significance, our guide says: “It was the Dirty Dancing of its time.”

Did you know Johann Strauss II reportedly kept his adoring fans happy by giving them locks of hair from his black poodle? Our guide dubs him the “Justin Bieber of his day” and says he came up with the ruse because he would have ended up soon bald as so many admirers clamoured for a memento.

view of Vienna over St Stephen’s Cathedral

We take an optional tour around the grounds of the Hofburg Palace and learn about Empress Maria Theresa, Austrian archduchess and head of the famed Habsburg dynasty from 1740 to 1780. She was also Marie Antoinette’s mother. Stories of Duchess Elisabeth, otherwise known as Sisi, who led a colourful life before being assassinated in Geneva in 1898, fire my imagination.

Of course, it would be impossible to visit Vienna without trying the cake, and you’re spoiled for choice with all the cafés. Instead of sachertorte, though, I enjoy a gooey cream-filled pastry at a traditional confectioner called L. Heiner. Such bliss.

That evening we return to the Hofburg Palace and a concert in its breathtaking Festsaal. I gaze at the vast ceiling frescos by Schramm, paying homage to Emperor Franz Josef, under whose reign the hall was completed, as the wonderful Wiener-Hofburg Orchestra provides a night of sublime music with some gentle comedy touches.

 Soprano Andrea van der Smissen and baritone Georg Lehner enchant both as soloists and in accomplished duets, with interpretations from Strauss and Mozart. Ballet stars Sandra Zelechowski and Bernhard Blauel draw enthusiastic applause for their charming routines. From the stirring opening overture from Strauss’ Der Zigeunerbaron (The Gypsy Baron) to a splendid rendition of his An Der Schönen, Blauen Donau (The Blue Danube) it’s a triumphant night.

From the cosmopolitan splendour of Vienna, Viking Hermod continues to Austria’s picturesque and peaceful Wachau Valley. We stroll along the river bank in Dürnstein, its path neighboured by vineyards and dotted with apricot trees. In Melk, a guided tour of the abbey brings more tales of intrigue of the Habsburg era and the walk back to our ship offers a chance to savour the scenic lure of the Danube.

This fabled waterway runs from Germany’s Black Forest to a delta in the Black Sea. It flows through 10 countries and four European capitals.

But not all the places visited on the Blue Danube cruise are on its riverbanks. We cross the Czech border from Linz in Austria by motor coach to explore fairy tale Český Krumlov. I walk independently here, through wholly cobblestoned streets to find a tiny café and sit and people watch in its central square.

Linz’s beautiful main square

I listen to jazz buskers and stroll through alleys, again feeling drawn to relax by the river. The Danube, for a few short days, feels like home. This could just possibly be down to the warm welcome we receive each time we step back on board Viking Hermod – with hotel manager Julian enthusiastically joining in.

Our final port of call is Passau in Bavaria. Here there are more cobblestones but some, in Hell Alley, are painted in vivid bright colours by artists wanting to show people why the winding street’s frightening name comes from its propensity to flood.

As we listen to an organ recital in St. Stephen’s Cathedral, I reflect on visiting five countries in recent days, in total comfort, with the most brilliant company of our wonderful fellow passengers.

I leave Viking Hermod feeling enriched and longing for more classical music in my life. After all, I’ve enjoyed a symphony for the senses.

A Stateroom on a Viking Longship