Trinidad, Cuba: Two faces of a city. A photo documentary.

in #travel7 years ago (edited)

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Two years ago I was travelling in Cuba for four weeks. I have tried to experience Cuba as it really is using local transport, eating local food and talking to many amazing people. Today I want to share some of my favourite photos from Trinidad and some insights into the Cuban society and economy. I will show you the romanticized decay that makes Cuba famous as well as the life behind the colourful facades.

If you want to know more about Cuba, head over to Part 1 of my series on Cuba, my photo documentary about Havana.

View on Plaza Mayor

The colonial town of Trinidad looks like it has been cut out from a movie that is set in the Caribbean some centuries ago. Trinidad has been one of the first European settlements in the New World.


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Tourist Destination Trinidad

Today, the beautiful colonial town is visited by thousands of tourist every day who flock in from the resorts around Varadero and the capital Havana.

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Colourful Facades

The centre of town is really beautiful, since mainly thanks to the poor economic situation of the country no buildings have been torn down or been replaced by modern buildings. Recently, the colonial buildings in Trinidad have been renovated and look really beautiful.

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Colonial Architecture

Various museums are set around the centre of town, all of them will try to convince you how awesome the Cuban Revolution has been.

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Classic Cars roaming the Streets

A reason for many tourists to visit Cuba are the classic cars that can be found everywhere.

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Cars and the US-Embargo

While it is not true that all cars in Cuba are classic cars, many of them are, since the trade embargo placed upon Cuba by the US government since 1962 makes it quite hard to import modern cars to the isolated country.
Since most of the cars in Cuba are still owned by the government that tries everything to bring foreign currency into the country, many classic cars are now operated as taxis for tourists.

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Expensive Taxis: Only for Tourists

Most Cubans would never be able to afford the tourist taxis. If they can afford them, they use taxis collectivos, shared rides, which cost a fraction of the price of a ride in a tourist taxi. So if you are travelling on a budget and would like to get a ride in a classic car, look out for a taxi collectivo and pay with Pesos Cubanos (more on this currency later).

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Fuel efficient: The moto taxi

Another option popular with Cubans and a way to avoid the relative to the income very high fuel prices are the moto taxis. The problem with them is, that these scooters still need some fuel. Cuba used to buy oil from its socialist brother country Venezuela, but recently Venezuela's economy has been struggling a lot, so they can't afford to support Cuba any more.

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The best Option? Bicycles!

This is where bicycles come in handy. They are widely popular all over Cuba but are quite an investment to make since second hand bicycles are far more expensive than in capitalist countries where we can easily afford new bicycles.

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Horses are still popular in Cuba.

Bicycles are great for getting one person from one place to another, but in some cases there is a better way.

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One Horse Power

Horses are capable of transporting people as well as cargo. The best about horses is, that they run on food instead of gas, and while Cuba has no oil reserves, they can feed their horses with the produce of their own agriculture.

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Forget Buses, in Trinidad they have Carriages!

Even in the 21st century, in Cuba horse drawn carriages are widely popular as a replacement for the unreliable government buses.

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Advertisement in Socialism

As bad as socialism is for the people in Cuba, you have to let them one thing: The advertisements on the back of buses are way prettier than the one in the capitalist countries!

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Cuban Buses

There are different kinds of buses in Cuba. Modern long distant buses for tourists are run under the brand Viazul, while the older buses run by Astro are cheaper and only for Cubans (believe me, I tried to get on many times, no chance).

When I visited Cuba at Christmas time 2015, Viazul buses were booked out days ahead, so I decided to get around in local buses. These buses are called camiones in Cuba, which means "truck" in Spanish. And well, this is what they are, trucks with some benches installed in the back and cramped with as many people as possible. The buses are the chosen way of transport for many Cubans who cannot afford the Astro buses. A trip in a camion is a unique experience, but I would not recommend crossing Cuba in these vehicles (I did though..). Also, there is a railway line crossing Cuba from West to East, but Trinidad is not connected to the main railway line.

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Tourists enjoying a Tourist Restaurant

Let's get back to the centre of town, where tourist can enjoy the warm afternoon light in a restaurant. They will pay a few dollars for a meal here, which is very reasonable for Western standards. But you may remember from my last post that Cubans salaries can be as low as 15 USD a month, so how could they ever be able to afford to eat at a restaurant?

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One country, two currencies — Just like Steemit!

Well, let me introduce you to the Cuban currency system. While we as Steem and crypto users are used to handling multiple currencies, it comes as a shock to many tourists that there are actually two currencies in Cuba.

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, Cuba went through a severe economic crisis. Since the socialist Caribbean country has almost no industry, the value of the Cuban Peso dropped a lot and the Cuban government struggled to pay for any imports since nobody was willing to accept the currency of a failing economy. Currently, one Cuban Peso is worth only 0.04 USD.
Quickly, the US-Dollar became the real currency in Cuba, since its value was stable. At one point the Cuban government had to accept this, but they quickly realized that having the currency of their arch-enemy might not be the best thing to do. So they came up with a second currency pegged to the US-Dollar, the Peso Convertible.

The Peso Cubano is also often referred to Peso Nacional, while the Peso Convertible is called CUC. To make this more confusing, both can be referred to as Peso.
For Cubans, all goods except luxury and imported items are paid in Pesos Cubanos, while most tourists will only pay with CUC during their visit. The great news is, that you can exchange your CUC to Pesos Cubanos completely legal in one of the government-run change houses (casa de cambio). After commission, 1 CUC gets you 24 Pesos Cubanos and in fact you can pay anything but accommodation in Pesos Cubanos and travel incredibly cheap!

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The cheapest Food in the World?

Here you can see some prices for food from a small street side cafeteria. You can get a delicious cheese pizza for 5 Pesos (0,20 USD!) and a bucket of ice cream for the same price for dessert. Even if you feel like a millionaire, I encourage you not to start giving away money, since generous tourists are becoming an increasing problem for the Cuban economy: If begging tourists for a Dollar earns more money than working for the government, the Cuban economy will do even worse which will be bad for everyone. The socialist government may not enable most people to get rich, but they make sure to provide shelter and food for everyone, so real poverty in Cuba is actually lower than I have seen in any other Latin American country and so theoretically nobody would need to beg for money.

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Cafeterias: Eating like a Cuban

There are also many government run restaurants for the locals around where you pay a few Pesos Cubanos for a decent meal, but the small cafeterias are actually quite a new sight in Cuba: They are actually not owned by the government, since a few years back the government decided to allow Cubans to start small businesses. Since then, there have been many family run pizza shops like this one opening up all around the country.

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The Cuban Spirit

Although having very little money compared to people from the Western world, people in Cuba seem a lot happier, they smile more and spend time with their friends and neighbors.

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Streets filled with Life

I don't know if it is the Latin American spirit or the fact, that only some people own a TV, but the streets in Trinidad are filled with life.
Life in Cuba seems a lot more social than in many Western countries where everyone sits in their own apartment in front of their own TV. It is funny though that people in socialist Cuba actually have a very capitalist mindset and dream of buying their own smartphone or TV, while some people in the Western industrial countries are slowly realizing that there is more to life than money. I think cryptocurrencies demonstrate every day how relative the value of money is, so working a well paid job you hate is not be worth sacrificing social life.

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A "real" Playground

Another reason while there are so many kids playing on the streets might be the playgrounds in the suburbs. Seriously, who would like to play at a place like this?

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The Suburbs of Trinidad

The suburbs of Trinidad look way different from the renovated Colonial buildings in the centre. This is the Cuban reality that most tourists never get to see.

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Lining up for Internet

Many people in Cuba have never used the internet, although there are several telepuntos available across Cuba. The telepuntos are basically internet cafés, but internet access is to expensive for most Cubans.
The Western point of view is, that the Cuban government does not want its people to be able to inform themselves about the world outside of the isolated country, but this is just one side of the coin. In fact, for many years the US has successfully blocked all attempts to connect Cuba to the world wide web using a submarine cable. Large parts of the internet connections leaving Cuba are lead over satellite, which incurs high costs. According to Wikipedia, the total download bandwidth between Cuba and the global internet is just 397 Mbit/s! For this reason the Cuban government is hosting a Cuban intranet providing various government run websites and even their own version of Wikipedia (well, you see that censorship might also be a motivation here...).

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Cuba's Wifi Parks

While in private homes internet access is still not available legally, the Cuban government has installed various Wifi hotspots in parks around the country just a few months before I visited in 2015. Internet is priced at about 2 CUC per hour and therefore too expensive to most Cubans.
Tourists love the Wifi hotspots and it is funny to watch hordes of tourists gathering in local parks. Did you notice the boy in the photo who is the only one without a smartphone in these hands? And then parents complain about their internet-addicted kids...


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Change is coming

With the increasing adoption of internet and the introduction of private businesses Cuba is changing quickly. When I was there, there were still big hopes in the Obama administration to discontinue the embargo, but with the current US-government it seems like this will have to wait.

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I hope you have enjoyed my photo documentary about Trinidad and I hope I have added some paint to your image of Cuba.

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Please note that the information in the post is mostly derived from conversations I had during my stay in Cuba and may not be totally accurate.

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10 days ago I posted my photo documentary about Havana, Cuba to celebrate 50 Followers. Today I hit 100. I want to give back to this amazing community so I decided to do this part two about Trinidad, Cuba.

All the photos in this post are original and many of them have never been published before. All my photos are available for licensing, please contact me through my Website.


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Hello. Cool photo. I love it.

Thank you mate!

Oh my god
You wrote too long in one posting.
Scroll down. . . several times .
lol
thank you for your pics

When I came up with the idea of this post I had the plan to post 5, maybe 10 photos but then I just could not decides which ones to choose. I hope your mouse wheel is still alive haha! Thank you very much for your support!

lol yeah me too i scrolled down a lot

I've been to Cuba too last year and I have the feeling Cuba is changing fast. Me and my girlfriend are used to travel in Asia and South America and we always try to connect with locals and find our own way but in Cuba this was not easy. We always had the feeling we never saw the real Cubans and that they saw tourists like a walking ATM.

We managed to change some CUC in Pesos but in most places they just refused our money and demanded CUC so the price was x25 higher. We tried to eat local in small restaurants away from tourist centers but they all have a 2nd price card with 'tourist prices'. After a while we started to get tired to avoid being scammed every time.

My cousin traveled to Cuba in 2015 and again this year and visited some of the same places and he said the country was totally different. When I was there in September 2016, there were again direct flights from the US and American tourists were flooding in. Locals adapt very fast and visiting Cuba is loosing it charm.

Oh really? This sounds kind of bad, I am probably lucky that I have been to Cuba in 2015, but I plan on visiting again. But even in 2015 the problem in Cuba was that scamming tourists for a few Dollars can earn a Cuban a lot more money than working in a government job; if they just manage to make one Dollar a day it already is a decent income and since most tourists don't mind one Dollar they probably make a lot more than that. The "bad Cubans" were mostly the obvious scammers approaching me in English at the tourist places.
Do you speak Spanish? I was lucky enough to have learned Spanish at school and I found that even most Cubans who speak English will only see you as a tourist and therefore as a walking Dollar-Sign when you talk to them in English. Speaking Spanish, I got to know many amazing people and almost none of them were trying to earn money with me.

Yes, my girlfriend speaks almost fluent Spanish after doing an internship in Ecuador. She's used the live between the locals over there and expected to find hey way in Cuba

I've seen my cousin (who also speaks fluent Spanish) yesterday on Christmas and he confirmed the enormous change the country made the last 2 years. Especially the west of the country changed. Places like Vinales, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Havana have been flooded with tourists. In the east you still can find some of the original atmosphere and cheap prices you mention above.

Ok, seems like there have been massive changes, what a shame..
I went to Vinales for a few days in the end of my trip to Cuba and since the small village almost had more tourists than locals it was impossible to find cheap street food there. But still, the people from the casa where I was staying at were amazing and invited my to the neighborhood dinner.
When I was visiting in 2015, in Havana, Trinidad and the other cities there was a very small touristy core where all the scammers and tourist-priced government places were, just two blocks away from that people were asking me if I was lost haha, it seems like most tourist only ever visit the tourist centre.
Santiago was quite different from the rest of Cuba but it certainly is an amazing place, I had the most amazing lemonade of my life there and visited an ice cream place where I met some great people, but it turned out that they had many different ice cream cups like Tutti Frutti on the menu, but actually the only difference between them were the number of cones and waffles you would get since they only had one kind of ice cream :D
I was so shocked to hear that a hurricane destroyed the small east coast town of Baracoa last year, I have met so many great people there..

Oh I know! So sad about Baracoa! I didn't get to go there, but one of my best friends knows TONS of people there and is just so upset about it. Breaks my heart...Cuba already has it hard enough

@pieter87 I hope you see this. I'm new to Steemit so I'm just now seeing this post, but that's so interesting that you said you feel Cuba is changing.

I haven't been there since 2012, so that makes me VERY curious about in what ways it's changing, because when I was there, I actually made friends with lots of locals!

I'm just like you and your girlfriend...I always try to connect with locals. What a shame you had a hard time in Cuba connecting. I wonder if they're less friendly now because of more American tourists?

I was always afraid of Cuba changing once direct flights from the US were allowed again...which is why I made it one of my goals to go before they were allowed. I was scared the whole time that something bad was going to happen to me for doing it, though haha.

I'm such a rule follower, that's like the one rule I've ever deliberately broken.

I discussed this with my cousin during Christmas. He's been there 2 year ago and again last year.

He said especially the more touristy places like Havana, Trinidad, Vinales,... are changing fast. Locals see lots of tourist coming and going and see that they can make easy money. For many of them, the tourist are walking ATM's. And especially with the Americans coming who have the habbit of giving big tips and don't complain when they get an excessieve restaurant bill.

He said they less touristy East still has the original Cuban vibe he liked during his first visit. The people are less greedy and more honest.

Incredible post. Cuba is really worth to visit.

Totally, Cuba is an amazing place to visit!

Wow, that's a hell of a post, and you deserve every penny you earned. Very nice! When I started I did a couple post that rivaled something like this. It blew up for like 60 dollars, not 190 like here! But I was all excited, I then did another post of the same quality.......$3.50, and it took me all afternoon to put together. I was bummed out. One time I copied and pasted a like to another website about somethng in Ecuador. Took me 5 minutes, blew up for 70 dollars! I learned to find a middle ground and build connections like you have with me. You can see how my post all earna similar amount with votes from the same people mostly works for me!

I bet this post took you some time. I hope you have better luck than me if you keep pumping out this quality work. You'll breeze past me in no time if this becomes a norm for you. Congratulations!

I was very lucky to have this post supported up by @curie. I put about 6 hours of work into it, not including the time I needed for editing the photos in the first place. It would really not pay off to spend so much time for a 2$ post that is viewed by 10 people. Since @curie won't support me for every post I make (if for any other than this one!) I also have to think about doing post that take less time to create, but still offer a certain amount of quality; Your Real Life Captured series seems like a great way to do this. Building up a base of regular readers and upvoters like you have is also my goal and your support is a great start!

Exactly. That was my issue. Several months ago, now I do some post on occasion that take several hours and they usually pay me more too. Getting started is the absolute hardest part. I played around with a lot strategies, then came to a conclusion of about 3-6 paragraphs with 10-20 photos, and several different numbered themes. It has really worked well for me. Feel free to take do a similar thing of your own if you feel that is right for you. My average post takes about 30 minutes to an hour to put together from start to finish now. The absolute worst was doing a a 4 hour post for 37 cents. That happened to me more than once, several months ago.

This sounds like a great plan. I have already published two posts about Cuba, so I might just name the third post Two faces of a city #3. Numbered themes also seem like a great way to bring consistency into the Blog and attract regular readers. Thanks for the tip!

You are welcome. Also I've found no need to blast out too much material at once, break one big post into two or three and get paid twice or tripple for the same amount of time spent. Also expands your visibility on the platform, and increased your chances that one of them could go a little viral. Just my opinion, some will argue against that. Saying do one super post like you did here and you'll get paid more....in this very case, that philosophy would be right. So it's you're call and something to consider.

I am about to finish my next post about Cuba and it has 13 photos and about 1.300 words. Also, the post is pretty much about New Year's Eve, so it might not work to publish a second part at a later date.
Would you still recommend splitting it into two posts?

So I decided to publish the full post now, I just hope I didn't just waste New Year on a post worth only a few cents in the end! Well, at least it is shorter than this post about Trinidad..

Since I have started my theme Two Faces of a City with a lot of information and photos on my first two posts, I will keep doing this for this theme, but I will try splitting my next post in two parts anyways.
Also, I will soon be starting with other numbered themes that will take less time to create.

Excellent job Julian! What an elaborated and well-composed travel post :) We didnt make it to Trinidad when in Cuba but now, after reading this post and watching all those stunning photos (the streets look incredible!), I feel like I was there too :) Thank you for sharing. I wish many people will read and upvote it because it took a good deal of hard work to put it together like this. Glad my vote is currently worth at least 4 cents :D Keep it up my friend.

Thank you my friend! It took me about 6 hours to create this post, but today I woke up to see that it now is at over 182$, that is more than I dreamed of, what an amazing Christmas present from this awesome community! It seems like high quality content really pays off on Steemit.

I replied to you on the chat ;)

Ho Ho Ho! Hier kommt Dein 100-prozentiger Weihnachtsupvote! Danke für Deine Teilnahme an der Weihnachtsaktion. Frohe Weihnachten wünscht @eikejanssen.

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It is a good post, but there are actually some inaccuracies in it, as cuban i can tell

  • the price of the internet is lower
  • there are actually a lot of municipes where there is internet in homes, and it is a service in expansion
  • food isnt that cheap(maybe for tourists), it is if you compare it with dollars it is, but the currency is peso, so, isnt cheap
    ......
    .
    .
    .

Thank you for your comment! I was in Cuba two years ago, so not all the information are up to date. I have also mentioned that my information are mostly derived from conversations I had during my stay in Cuba and may not be 100% accurate. I did some research online and from what I found things still seem to be the same. Maybe my friend @phortun can confirm this?

  1. Possible, as internet gets more adoption in Cuba prices need to get lower. How much is the price now?
  2. I also wrote about how the government is increasing the availability of internet. When I was visiting in 2015, internet in homes was still an exception and only allowed for some selected professions such as doctors, while for most people internet access in their home would have been illegal.
  3. Of course, I wrote that also. For tourists a Pizza for 5 pesos/0,20 USD is very cheap, but for a Cuban earning 15 or 20 USD a month this is quite expensive.

I literally laughed when this post opened up and I saw the top photo is the EXACT same picture my friend took a few months ago. It's definitely a super artistic shot... you both have a good eye.

This post is goals. Seriously.

I went to Cuba almost 6 years ago, when it was technically not legal at all for Americans to go. I was too scared to take pictures of my trip, because I didn't want to have evidence of having done something wrong.

I only have maybe 3 pictures from Cuba that other people tagged me in.
Seeing this makes me want to go back SO badly to capture it all on film.

It's such a beautiful country. Did you also think the streets of Havana were filled with life? Curious about your Havana impressions. I assume that's where you flew into?

Following and upvoted.

Thanks for your nice comment!

Wow, how did you make it into the country with an American passport? Was entering the country only prohibited by the US government and not by the Cuban government?

I loved Havanna! I could have spent my entire time in Cuba just roaming the streets of this amazing city. The streets are really filled with life, probably the good side of having little internet and TV. I was watching some Cuban guys playing chess next to the street and they invited me to play a match with them. Also, I loved the cheap street food! I also did a post about Havanna while ago.

Good point...I never thought of lack of access to internet as a reason that everyone hangs out still. Makes sense. Honestly I think it's a happier life that way.

I felt the same about Havana, although I did sense a little sadness from some people on the Malecon. Some of them seemed to be drinking to forget something painful or difficult in their life.

But other than that, yeah...I had an amazing time in Havana and loved it. I'll have to look for your Havana post.

I probably shouldn't be saying this, but oh well...I paid everything in cash, switched planes in Mexico, told Cuba not to stamp my passport...actually, the story gets pretty funny, maybe I should write a post about it here.

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