Travel South America #5: The Pirate Island
The Pirate Island
With how amazing Rio has been, I was very keen to explore more of this incredible country. On my way south, I stopped off at the beautiful island of Ilha Grande.
The secluded beaches of Ilha Grande, Brazil
The Island
Ilha Grande is an island located off the coast of Brazil, around 3 hours from Rio. It was closed for the public by the government due to it being host to a maximum-security prison, however after the prison closed in 1994, it has become a popular tourist destination due to its rugged terrain, scenic beaches and rich biodiversity. Vehicles are banned on the island and trekking trails connect the villages across the island. Ilha Grande is also home to Lopes Mendes beach, arguable one of the best beaches in Brazil.
With its recent influx in tourism, there are many hotels and hostels to choose from. I stayed in Che Legarto, which is close to the ferry port. An amazing and clean hostel, it had a great atmosphere for backpackers, with unforgettable views from my hostel room.
Waking up to this every day....
How to get there
With no motorized transport allowed, the only way to get to Ilha Grande is by boat. From Rio de Janeiro, you can take a 3 hour local bus, or a transfer which will pick you up in any of the major districts. The bus ride drops you off at a ferry point from which you take an approximately 30min ferry to the main town of Vila do Abraão. Due to the sandy nature of the walking trails, I wouldn’t recommend taking any wheeled luggage. The price for the journey varies, however I used a transfer company which included the boat fare in my price and cost me around 180 BRL (£45).
What to do
Due to it’s lack of motorised transport, forest filled hills and hidden beaches, Ilha Grande reminds me of a “pirate island”. It has some short treks that take you through small forests to some scenic and very secluded beaches. The trek to Lopes Mendes takes around 2 hours and you cross some beautiful other beaches along the way. The water here is gentler than in Copacabana and Ipanema and the sand is so much softer.
In the evenings, truly delicious restaurants pop up. My personal recommendation is Café Do Mar. Located on the main beach of Vila do Abraão, Café do Mar is a BBQ place. They have fresh food which they grill in front of you and serve with rice and salad. The vegetarian option is amazing. A large cheese (reminded me of halloumi!) skewer and a mixed vegetable skewer, grilled to perfection. The meal will take some beating! After you select your food, you can wait outside the restaurant, lounging on the deck chairs on the beach, as the waves lap up to your feet, watching the sunset with a beer. A mixture of Brazilian funk and chilled hip hop music plays in the background giving the perfect ambiance. My favorite meal of the trip!
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