The Spirit Houses of my Neighborhood
One of the culturally defining set of features in my day to day in Bangkok, as I walk to and from the grocery store, convenience store, or cafe, are the Thai spirit houses along my path. Many of these spirit houses, appropriately enough, also double as Poké Stops or Pokémon gyms. In addition to the analogue spirits given shelter and appeased by offerings at the corners of various properties, there are now digital entities, which, similarly can be offered fruity digital treats for their capture or health.
I thought to share some images of a selection of these shrines in my immediate neighborhood.
The first spirit house belongs to my temporary dwelling at the Villa Sathorn Condominium, which although beautiful, is not in this case also a Poké Stop. The simple wooden architecture definitely has more in common with a Lan Na style than other shrines I encounter daily, given its material and simplicity. The acute vertical angles, however, in my mind seem to allude to a Sukhothai sentiment. Below is a full side view of the shrine, which, like most, consist of an altar standing on a pillar:
Below is a direct front view:
As you'll notice there are a variety of intricate flower arrangements, spirit offerings such as incense, votive candles, water, and fruity drinks, as well as figurines. The figurines of our condo's shrine are plentiful and quite expressive:
My less adventurous "average" day lies essentially along either side of a forked path. The most common path is that which I take to the grocery store at the small shopping complex, Sena Fest, nearby. About midway to the complex there is a small guard station and a Poké Stop:
Here is a full view of the small altar, which is of a Khmer style "Prang" or spire:
The Khmer style of Prang is my favorite architectural style. The first example I'd ever seen of this in person on a temple was in Ayutthaya, Thailand, and then Angkor Wat in Cambodia, back in 2007. Below is a close up, and one can tell immediately that the spirits of this house have a strong taste for sugary beverages. :)
Once I reach Sena Fest, there is a much more prominent altar, which is quite a bit larger, featuring a glass enclosure at its summit, housing a 4-faced Phra Phrom (Brahma).
If, instead of walking to Sena Fest, which turns to the right of the forked path, I stay left in order to hang out at the Study Room cafe, which is where I'm currently writing this blog, I encounter my first Poké Stop:
The spirit house does have a Khmer "finger" type spire, but with a distinctly Thai gold skin. This particular shrine is typically more spartan than others I encounter, with some votive candles and incense, but less often as many drink offerings or as much flourish.
A close up of the face of the shrine. Two diminutive figures sit at the entry, quiet and reposed. I enjoy the subtle sense of silence and vacancy of this house.
Next I come across a Poké Gym near a busy intersection.
Here there are not one, but two shrines of different architectural styles, encircled by a host of lively elephant and zebra figures:
:
The left most shrine is of a Khmer style and the spirit house on the right is in the Lan Na manner:
Here is a closeup of the Khmer style spirit house and its altar platform:
Owing no doubt to a more popular currency of traffic through the area, we see a greater abundance of decor, both in the amount of figures as well as the prominence of flowing garlands adorning the house above.
Below is a solid close up of the Lan Na style spirit residence. Though a bit more modest in its presentation, its abundance conveys through an aura of living green decorum:
Last we come across a clean modern architectural example of an altar of the 4-faced Phra Phrom at the Vue shopping complex:
The aesthetic of this particular spirit house is interesting in how it is very much an open and planar design. Votives and decor keep generally toward a distilled range of mother of pearl, white, and silver.
Altars like these are absolutely abundant in the Kingdom; a consistent affirmation of the animist sensitivity in Thailand. And yet given this ubiquity they also each distinctly relate to their place of residence, giving rise to a defining neighborhood character at every point of residential and commercial space.
Being in Thailand, and in Southeast Asia, can be extraordinary in beholding the amazing and grand temple designs at numerous tourist destinations. A little magic, and special charm can be found nonetheless in the most mundane treks. And on top of it all, the traveler can fill up on Poké Balls and other items.