Harvard-Educated Philosophy Professor - "Getting Barreled Is Important!"
Surfer and philosopher Aaron James describes the parallels between surfing a wave and living a happy and successful life! The very skills one needs to survive in pumping surf are indeed the same as those, succeeding in life can require. You must relax, keep a cool head and realise you are capable of doing what is necessary - you have done the training you need... (an important point not be missed!), so you just have to go for it... while not being fool hardy!
Professor James has built a life for himself that by all accounts is worthy of envy. The Harvard-educated philosophy professor has essentially navigated two parallel, seemingly disparate paths in life, pursuing both with an unquestionable and unabashed devotion... another two qualities that will help all to succeed!
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This is brilliant and I am glad to come across another philosopher, the third one in 2 days! I also used to surf and windsurf till I hurt myself for life. I have always understood the parallels between my extreme sports practices and life, so it warms my heart to know you have even written a book about this very subject.
It is fantastic to come across such an excellent post, thanks a lot for sharing with us all.
May the force stay with you and us all! Namaste :)
Hello Eric,
Wonderful to meet you too!
How did you injure yourself? How much mobility do you have? I have a great friend who surfs the same break as me in Costa rica... he is paralysed from the waist down but still surfs any size wave! He is a dedicated man! He carries his surf board on his wheel chair and when he gets to the beach he crawls like a turtle into the water - dragging his legs - and board! I know he is in the water when i see his turtle like trail! He then body surfs his surfboard with great skill - often getting BIG barrels! I have been meaning to write a post about this wonderful man ... coming soon!
May the force be with you and I hope to see you in the waves :D
What a great reply @icedrum!
Thank you so very much for the highly motivating words, this is the kind of human relationships we could all get more from. To answer your questions, in short, I injured myself because I behaved like a young puppy, excitetedment got the best of me and I didn't follow proper prior procedures to prevent poor performances: I jumped off a 6 foot jump on skis, without checking how far the landing was ahead of time and went waaaaaay to far, landing on a flat spot where an icy rot caught the heel of my ski as I had done a turn and a half... My ACL got ripped on the spot. Though I had it reattached, the knee is far from being what it used to be and I am still learning as to what it can or can't do. Meanwhile, the whole body is readapting tot he new paradigm of movements. It looks like I still can do anything, but it sure doesn't feel that way.
Afterwards, I ended up ripping my right shoulder right out of its socket and, thus, entirely tearing another ligament holding the shoulder in place... Last time I went windsurfing in Haida Gwaii, I realized how dangerous it was for my life to go swimming in such exposed ares as the tidal and currents of the ocean provide. I still can drum though and enjoy some serious good times doing yogic exercises trying to stay in some sort of shape. As we say, we aren't going to get out of this one alive. Meanwhile, I sure have been living a few lifetimes already.
I can't wait to read your post about your friend, he sounds like an amazing human being from which many could learn and grow from.
Keep your smile and taking good care, Steem on and, above all, thrive on! Namaste :)
Wow ... i drum too! :D
Namaste!
We are another two soul brothers meeting in synchronicity... Namaste :)
Namaste
Wait. Is that icedrum himself in the video?
Haha Hi backpacking monk !
No - not me this time... i gotta take my gopro out more and get some shots for you all of my jungle paradise :D
Yes please
Would love to see you're side of the world :)
Yes, something worthy of doing for its own sake is important. I think there is a plague in our society where people want everything to be easy all the time. The strongest and most successful people in the world actually seek and enjoy pursuing things that are hard for the sake of the process. Hardship breeds strength. Thanks for sharing this post, I love the philosopher/surfer dynamic, it's pulling at completely opposite ends but also relating to each other in such an interesting and valuable way!
I have always understood the parallels between my extreme sports practices and life, so it warms my heart to know you have even written a book about this very subject.
It is fantastic to come across such an excellent post, thanks a lot for sharing with us all.
Hello vigneshvinay,
Pleased to meet you - actually it isn't me! But i wholeheartedly agree with professor Aaron James about the good surfing can do :D
I was just gonna tag you in this post icedrum.
Then I saw its your own post.😝
I'm not a surfer , I don't know to swim.
But I've been around quite a few surfers.
It's so true, surfer have a more philosophical approach to life .
I see them apply certain things from surfing to everything else they do.
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Hey BPM :D
Do learn to swim bro! - perhaps it's like going back to the womb or because we were all once fish! ... but swimming and floating can bring the greatest pleasure!
Happy floating - steem on!
Haha BPM :D. I like the way that sounds.
This is something most of us Indians lack
We are missing out on so many things by not mastering this life skill, especially while traveling.(when we see the rivers ,lakes and ocean)
I kind learnt to save to myself in swimming pools.
Still have to learn proper breathing techniques.
Thanks for the encouragement though.
Really need it :)
This is the kind of footage i would love to capture with my drone! Great video, cool surfer!
Hey biffy,
Pleased to meet you - go for it! - i love good drone footage :D
Following you now for some Aerial Action!
Very cool philosophy on life.
Thank you digitaldruid,
Following you now also :D
Wish i can do it
You can ... GO for it!
Watch my other videos - you can surf on rivers lake, behind boats and down mountains - water is every where :D
i even don't know how can i win the wave hihi but i still like to watch about this
You can't catch a wave if you stare at it right? Life and surfing seem to intersect a lot. Idon't surf but it seems almost theraputic in a way like meditation which has really given me a new perspective on life.
Hello thedfsadvisor,
Pleased to meet you ... yes - it is very therapeutic indeed - you must try :D
Hahaha this is awesome, of course you work in Cali, what a dream! I feel like you could convert a lot of people who roll their eyes at philosophy with this surfing analogy.
Thanks for this!
Hello greaseandcake,
Pleased to meet you - actually it isn't me! But i wholeheartedly agree with professor Aaron James about the good surfing can do :D
I like the comparison between surfing and real life. It's quite the analogy. But how does one get by with little or no training to start with and without the means to acquire said training?