You are viewing a single comment's thread from:

RE: Killer Big Waves - A True Surfing Story

in #story7 years ago

Yes, feeling the power of the waves is quite humbling... Until you are in them and experience it, it is difficult to imagine.

The allure is tremendous, especially once you have experienced riding a wave. And for me, at least, I don't think it is an adrenaline thing. There is a pure joy that I have on that dynamic roller coaster that I've found nowhere else. It is difficult to convey, but undeniable.

Thanks for your reflection on this!

Coin Marketplace

STEEM 0.17
TRX 0.15
JST 0.028
BTC 57159.76
ETH 2351.81
USDT 1.00
SBD 2.38