Making a dress pattern...a.k.a. what in the world am I doing?

in #sewing7 years ago

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So this particular dress journey started when the non chain fabric store by our house changed ownership, and I bought some really pretty silk faille on sale.

Definition of faille
: a somewhat shiny closely woven silk, rayon, or cotton fabric characterized by slight ribs in the weft

Silk refers to the fiber (obvious, I know) and faille refers to the treatment of the fiber, which fact fascinates me. I was optimistic enough to think (long, long ago in my teens...haha!) that I could do anything with any fabric, but it was obvious (and quickly) how wrong I was. I think now that fabric is like a tool and different fabric stiffness and silkiness or roughness requires different shapes to the pieces of the pattern.

Did you know that cutting a square piece on a 45 degree angle changes completely how it lays?

I started out making a skirt. A really simple skirt made completely from rectangles of fabric. I double box pleated the fabric to the waistband and made two long ribbons of fabric cut on an angle (known as "the bias") for decoration. I really like this fabric; it glows! 20171103_145955.jpg

I had about a yard left of the fabric, and the more I was looking at this skirt, it seemed a pity not to make it a dress. The trick was that I wanted to make the stripes chevron, and 1 yard of fabric isn't a lot to match stripes with and make sleeves. I like sleeves. Why do so many winter dresses have either short skirts or no sleeves? It makes no sense to me!

I made pockets, too. Nice deep pockets. My main beef with modern dresses is their lack of pocketry and general shortness or low necklined-ness, polyester-ness and other such deficiencies! Perhaps if my pocketbook extended to more expensive designers I would not have these issues, but I digress.

Don't mention strapless. PLEase. So unbecoming. (prim font on, in bold)

I am not as strong in my bodice math as I am in my skirt math. Math in general, actually. I really need to retake math if I want to get better at patternmaking because geometry comes in handy if you are trying to cover something 3D in something practically 2D. Anyway, I cut some squares of fabric out of an old sheet and started pinning and trimming. I knew I wanted pleats instead of darts in the bodice (pleats are folds, darts are basically folds sewn in) because it's a lot easier. You're basically taking a square shape and pinching in fabric where there isn't body in the way so that when you go in at the waist so does the dress!

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It fits me a bit differently than Molly the Mannequin, but I like the fit so far! I'll be writing more as I go. I don't want to download all at once, and I'll try to do a little more "pictures as I go" because that always helps me, instead of just pictures of the finished product.

I'm really excited about this dress! I have a lot of time to finish it, because the event I will probably wear it to is in March. I'd like to get it done before then, but I'm having to take more time than I'd like. This is mostly being sewn of an evening.

Thanks for reading!

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Here's the question: what is the event in March that you'd like to wear this dress too?

The Musicale!!!! We got tipped the wink by Grace, and I thought that we had informed you as we were supposed to...:'(

This is lovely! Also, I love the word "pocketry." I agree wholeheartedly with your complaints about the way clothing is designed today. I love me a skirt and this one is especially pretty!

Thank you! I appreciate the compliment. :D

Nice to meet another steemian who sews! Following!

Thanks! There are more sewists out there! :D Following back.

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Love your post. Love your pictures. The skirt is beautiful and the bodice will be, too. You and I have some of the same complaints about clothing. Necklines too low, skirts too short. Too few garments made of natural fabrics. I buy most of my things at a thrift store, anyway, so the older an item is, the more likely you can find natural fabrics and higher necklines. The alternative is to make my own.

If I have a garment with no pockets, I make a pocket and slit the side seam and insert it. Or, if it will enhance the style, I will add a contrasting patch pocket. How can folks live without any pockets, for pete sake? Looking forward to your next post. I did get my post about the little scrap bears up. Take a look and go "Awwh". Have a great day, curly.

Aww, thanks! I will go off and on buying things at thrift stores. Sometimes I find really great things that are quality, and sometimes I really don't. Maybe it's the area I live in! We live right by a LOT of huge stores, and I like to shop sales. Natural fiber is a big thing I look for, and I can get 100% cotton things a lot; it's the wool and silk that get really expensive so I'm a lot more likely to buy those as fabric and make things. You can get wool especially for a good price online, and wool is like a super-fabric to me. It breathes, it wicks moisture, it regulates temperature, it's not flammable, it repels water...it's like it was intended to go on a body or something! :D :D

Yes, wool and linen, both are so fabulous. Have you done any study on the electrical frequency of wool and linen. Fascinating evidence of it being so healthy for our bodies to wear.

Thrift store finds I watch for also includes bed spreads, curtains, and big full skirts that I cut up just for the fabric or lace. A wedding dress for $5. might give me 10 yards of lace that would otherwise cost $5-$10 PER YARD. Plus beads or pearls. Win win. Thanks for your posts. I am enjoying them so much.

I never have done a study on the electrical frequency of wool and linen, it sounds interesting! I have been told that sleeping on 100% cotton everything makes for less static electricity which is better for your body. Interesting!

I see it is probably the area I'm in that makes my thrifting short lived. Wedding dresses I've looked at in thrift stores in my area have been upwards of $80, and I can get better deals on the actual fabric other places. I am also a lace snob...:( Antique lace is my thing, and I mean at least 140 years old. I like SOME modern laces, but not many. I'm so glad you're enjoying my posts! I'm enjoying yours as well!

Lol. A lace snob. I am in such awe of antique lace, especially if it is hand-made, but I do not have any, and probably never will. Just knowing that someone knotted such beauty is awe-inspiring to me. Fine handwork, crochet, lace-making, tatting, embroidery, or any fabric craft causes me to stop and admire the skill, time, and effort it took to produce their art.

I have some lace that was my great-great-grandmothers! Like I said, my Nana saved things. :D I don't have any of the very fine antique lace, but I look at pictures and drool sometimes...during research I've found lots of examples while looking for other things. There is a huge difference in the lace when it started being machine made! Hand tatting is amazing to me, and crocheted lace...! So many people are artists in their own right.

I love the skirt. It is adorable. Will make a really nice dress I imagine! I think it's pretty amazing you're just designing as you go. And pockets sound great. I just bought a dress from a store that sells new Lands End rejects here in Panama and it had pockets. It was great! I don't remember the last dress I had with pockets. :) Anyway, I'm looking forward to more pics of the progress.

Thanks! I'm really pleased with it. I've always wanted to design clothes, so I've been experimenting for a long time with how to do it, and reading books and articles. Pockets have gone in and out of style in dresses for a long, long time, and I think it has to do with how slim the skirt is. Harder to hide bulgy pockets in a pencil skirt, for example! Of course, in the fifties they did some pencil skirts with pockets that were supposed to show up as part of the design, so go figure. I think the real reason we don't have lots of dresses with pockets right now is that women don't wear them everyday, and put up with no pockets when they do!

You do a great job. Can't wait to see the final product! :)

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I like all the photos! Happy to see you posting. @ironshield

Thanks Ben! I am going to try to keep it on a regular basis!

@crosheille has made an initiative here on Steemit to spread needlework art and get it displayed. Sewing, knitting and crocheting seems to have become a lost art, that is until Steemit. There are quite a few crafters that still love these arts. A group of us share our needlework creations every Monday using the tag #NeedleworkMonday. We share ideas, tips, patterns and techniques while encouraging and inspiring one another. Any art involving a needle is welcome! You can post new projects that you are working on or archived projects that you have pictures of. We would love for you to join us on Mondays and post under the tag so everyone can find your work. It has gotten pretty popular these past few months and more crafters are starting to share. We hope you check it out :) Thanks for your time~

I shall certainly check it out! Thanks for the tip! My mind is still swimming with bits of random knowledge as I try to understand how to use this platform. :D It would be good to have a regular Monday thing of it going on! @crystalize

Mondays are OUR day now! Heee! I hope it makes you feel better to know that I am lost on this platform! I just post and cross my fingers. But I'm pretty sure that using the tag #NeedleworkMonday for our Monday posts, and placing the #NeedleworkMonday reference in the text of our posts and titles will get everything in the right place.

It does make me feel better. :D My main focus is to try to make as few gaffes as possible, since it's so easy to be unintentionally rude when I don't know what I'm doing. People are very kind, it's just that I don't want to intrude on that more than I can help. :D I'm going to post some old stuff tomorrow, since I'm too busy to sew new for the next few days. This looks like fun!

It will be so much fun!

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