Memoir of a Soul Surfer. Have you found your passion??

in #photography8 years ago (edited)

Aloha fellow Steemians!!

Hope everyone has been having an amazing day!13686617_10207017857860843_3420867661869667699_n.jpg

Most people who have a passion in life no matter what it may be and has the ability to translate their passion into their lifestyle, and with this I'd like to bring up my passion. I started surfing late in life when I was in my late 30's(I am now 4umm...hehehe). I always had the ability from a young age to enjoy most activities that required being on your own two feet, for example skateboarding, skiing, snowboarding, rollerblading....etc. Forward so many years later, and I find a new passion!

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Surfing, what turns out to be my personal sanctuary, I find relaxation and peace when I am one with Mother ocean....Understandably, she does have to a tendency to be moody depending on the season. LOL! Tired, alive, lazy, powerful, loving, beautiful, ugly, joyful, soooo many factors involved. It's Mother Ocean and Mother Nature all wrapped into one when you're out on that surfboard, just yourself and nature. From the moment you first catch that very first wave you are hooked, so far warning. lol. Ever since my first wave back in 2000 I was hooked and had the stoke ever since!Surfing.jpg

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When you look at surfing in the way of life there are soo many analogies....riding the wave, who doesn't ride that wave in life? There are open faced clean waves that bring an amazing amount of creativity and pure blissful joy and then, there are those closed out waves, choppy, big, messy....just as in life we have those obstacles just the same...I think we can all relate.

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My point is when you are passionate about something, does it not surround your lifestyle? In a sense we are all in a way like artists when it comes to things like this....we can explore that creativity and translate into our daily lives. My surfing on a personal level allows me to escape, to escape to a place of reflection and accepting all that surrounds me, notably gratitiude. In short, I hope you all continue to strive for that passion in life, don't let a thing ever stop you and only make you stronger if does....we only live this life once. Find a reason to embrace it!

I hope you enjoy my memoir of a Soul Surfer and comment....Let's stay connected, hopefully we can do that with you following me and I will shortly after follow you....

Finally, I hope you enjoy this short video clip of me. Be free....

Much love to you all!

May you all be blessed and continue your passion!

Aloha!
@peazfulman

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