A Walk Among Giants

Hey Steemit Friends! Have you ever seen a giant redwood? The redwoods are the tallest living beings on the planet and when you're in the presence of these ancient behemoths, you can't help but be awe inspired.

We were taking a road trip down the Oregon Coast on our way to see these mystic mammoths. We knew we needed to get an early start if we wanted to have enough time during the daylight to see all the sights we wanted to see along the way to our destination, the redwoods. We usually try to pack the night before a road trip, but this was planned spur of the moment, so we didn't get on the road as early as we had hoped. We loaded up the car, stopped for gas and fueled up at Dutch Bros with some of the best coffee in the Northwest. With our thirst quenched and cameras ready, we drove on. The first stop along the coast was Depoe Bay, a small charter town. Their claim to fame is having the smallest harbor in the world. It is also known as one of the whale watching capitals of the world, with good reason. During whale watching season, you can sometimes view them up close as they come into the deep water near the viewing areas of Depoe Bay.

Dutch Bros Coffee

Depoe Bay

Depoe Bay (another day)

Seal Rock

The sun was shining, what a great start to a beautiful day on the coast. As we got to Seal Rock, near Waldport, it started to drizzle. Sometimes, the overcast days on the Oregon Coast are the most picturesque. We crossed over the Alsea River into Waldport and kept driving South on U.S. Route 101 toward Yachats. On our way to Florence, we stopped at the Heceta Head Lighthouse, which is located at Heceta Head Lighthouse State Scenic Viewpoint halfway up a 205-foot-tall headland. We didn't get to stay long, it was raining sideways and we were ready to get to the redwoods.

Further down the coast, we came to Reedsport, located along the emerald Umpqua River. It was in this stretch where we started seeing waterfalls along the highway, it's such a scenic drive. One of my favorite drives in Oregon is along the Umpqua River Highway from Reedsport to Roseburg. In the spring, there are many waterfalls along the way and in autumn, it's equally as appealing with all the colorful trees and foliage. Near Reedsport the landscape changes into mountainous hills of sand. The dunes of the Oregon Coast stretch across 40 miles of coastline. Thrill seekers flock by the thousands every year to ride off road vehicles of all kinds on these vast mountains of sand. The Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area is the largest area of sand dunes on the coast, some as high as 500 feet tall.

The Umpqua River Lighthouse stands guard at the entrance to Winchester Bay and Salmon Harbor.

A little further down Highway 101 is Coos Bay, the largest city on the Oregon Coast. Along with its close neighbor, North Bend, the two are often referred to as the "Bay Area." Don't expect expansive beach views here though, the city is found a little inland and has a lot of history with many firsts in Oregon. For those who want to know more, the Historic Marshfield District has several buildings on the National Register of Historic Places. Among these is a 92 year old theater with approximately 400 seats and home of the "Little Ole Opry on the Bay."

Sunset Beach

West of Coos Bay is Charleston. Have your camera ready because Cape Arago is where you will find those expansive ocean views. The Cape Arago Lighthouse cannot be seen up close as it resides on an island and can only be seen from a distance or by boat.

When we arrived in Bandon, we found a great little beachfront cottage to stay in, at Windermere on the Beach. It was very quaint and cozy. It had a full kitchen so we could prepare our own food, which we usually prefer to do. Windermere on the Beach is also pet friendly, for those with furry travel companions. We stopped at the local grocery store, which was surprisingly busy for such a small town and that time in the evening. I talked to a sweet elderly lady who talked us into an "old fashion" apple juice. We weren't even looking for juice, however, she was so convincing we had to try it. I have to say, I'm glad we did because it was delicious! We checked into our cottage, settled in and played a game of Chinese Checkers. It was so much fun!

Windermere on the Beach

The ocean was really loud, and created a nice roaring sound in the background for a little bedtime ambiance. My little boy and I peered out of the second story window facing the ocean where we could see the moonlight on the water highlighting each incoming wave. It was a special moment as we watched the ocean in awe and wonder for several minutes. During the night, we could hear the strong winds blasting rain against the beach facing windows as the stormy weather blew in. We turned the heater up as it turned into a very chilly night.

We started our day before dawn, this was the day we had all been waiting for. We were finally going to get to see the redwoods, our favorite place to visit! We were ready to get on the road, but before we did, we watched the pastel colors of the sunrise wash over the ocean from our cottage. After some hot coffee and a nice, home cooked breakfast, we packed up and headed down the road. Face Rock Wayside was just around the corner from where we stayed. We stopped to admire the view and even caught a rainbow over the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge.

Oregon Islands Wildlife Refuge

Just outside of Bandon, on our way to see the Cape Blanco Lighthouse, we passed by some cranberry bogs. There was also a sign for the Historic Hughes House, we were curious, so we drove up the road to see what it was. It turns out, it's a 3,000 square foot Queen Anne-style home that was built in 1898 on Cape Blanco for a pioneer dairy farmer. It's listed on the National Register of Historic Places. They do tours to show what life was like at the turn of the last century. The Victorian home boasts views of the Pacific Ocean, the Sixes River, and distant rolling hills. When we got to the lighthouse we were taking photos when a Coast Guard helicopter flew over (making for a perfect photo opportunity) and stayed in the area hovering in the wind and scanning the beaches. Living on the coast, we see this from time to time, so we weren't too alarmed. They were most likely training. The strong winds around the cape likely provide ideal conditions for training exercises.

Later, we pulled into Port Orford, another tiny town having typical coastal charm. South of Port Orford is the Prehistoric Gardens. There, you are guided through a coastal rain forest, walking among 23 life-size dinosaur replicas. They are also pet friendly (at the time of this post, you may want to call to confirm they still are), like many places on the Oregon Coast. Unfortunately, we didn't get to stop this time since we were ready to get to the redwoods. We will definitely put it on our list for the next time we pass through. Between Gold Beach and Brookings we crossed the highest bridge in Oregon, which stands 345 feet above Thomas Creek and is 956 feet from end to end. This area is beautiful with lush green hills and the mounds of coastal rocks jutting out of the water standing firm against the crashing waves.

If you're adventurous, you might enjoy a ride on a jet boat speeding down the Rogue River in Gold Beach. It's such a fun experience, I highly recommend doing this if you have time. This is also one of the only few Mail Boats left in the nation. They still deliver mail to the small town of Agness, 32 miles upriver, on a daily basis. You can ride on the 64 mile round trip, traveling at times in just inches of water. You will see lots of wildlife on this adventure. If you love fishing, you are in the right place. The Rogue River offers world class salmon and steelhead fishing with several fishing guides to choose from. Rafting and kayaking is also very popular on the Rogue.

Arch Rock was our last stop before moving away from the coastline toward the bumpy dirt road leading to the Oregon Redwoods Trail.

You might notice that the weather is milder here than the rest of the coast. The area around Brookings is considered the "Banana Belt" of Oregon. Many people don't know that Oregon has a varied climate from high desert to rain forests. Due to the oceanic influences, the redwoods have very consistent temperatures year round, averaging in the mid 40's to low 60's (Fahrenheit). Winters are cool with a lot of precipitation. From October through April, a high pressure area sitting above the North Pacific drives a series of storms onshore, dumping 60-80 inches of annual rainfall over the region. Fog provides as much as one quarter of the precipitation needed for these giants to survive. The coastal redwood species only grow in this region of the world, due to the mild climate. Coastal Redwoods persist on a narrow strip of land called the "Fog Belt" approximately 470 miles in length and 5–47 miles in width along the Pacific Coast of North America. The most southern grove is in Monterey County, California, and the most northern groves are in Southwestern Oregon, near Brookings on the Oregon Redwoods Trail. It's a rough ride in a car (at least when we were there last), I wouldn't recommend it. There were a few bad places in the road, yet I figured if we could make it through Moab Easter Jeep Safari, this was nothing. We didn't come all this way for nothing. There was a small, steady stream flowing in one of the tire ruts all the way down the road. Next time, I think we'll take the Jeep.

We made it to the end of the road and gathered a few things and started up the trail into the deep forest where the towering trees dwarfed and surrounded us. It made me realize how much I missed being among these amazing creatures of the forest. The oxalis (looks like large clover) and ferns blanketed the forest floor in a lush prehistoric setting.

As we moved further down the trail, the fog settled into the big trees creating a mysterious atmosphere. It is so welcoming to anyone who will stop for a moment to take in the serenity of this ancient place. If you want to be inspired, this is the place to be. Halfway through the loop you'll find an 800 year old, 296 ft tall, and 34 feet in circumference old growth redwood. These giants average 8 to 20 feet, yes, 20 feet in diameter! Some reaching as high as 379 feet tall. That's taller than the Statue of Liberty. Can you imagine seeing a tree taller than the Statue of Liberty? Now that's impressive! Near the middle of the trail loop you can walk into the hollow of one of these giants and look up through the inside. You don't really get the scope of the size of the redwood trees until you are standing among them looking up in awe as they tower around you. As always, we had to see more! We saw some massive trees on this trail but I have to say, if you want to see the really big ones, venture south just into California. Our favorite drive of all is near Jedediah Smith State Park on Howland Hill Road. It's only about 30 minutes away from the Oregon Redwoods Trail and takes you on a one lane winding dirt path, past the unbelievable Stout Grove. It winds through pristine old growth redwood forest that still seem to be untouched and timeless, aside from the bumpy dirt road leading you through. When you see a redwood tree for the first time, you feel as if you are in their world, not the other way around. The bark on the trees have soaring, deep, vertical grooves that seem to reach for the canopies high above. If you have a love for adventure, you can hike the 27 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail that winds through these massive forests. On this hike you will also experience stunning vistas, forested sea stacks, seaside prairies, small secluded beaches, and rugged cliffs.

The second place in Oregon you can see redwoods is the Alfred Loeb State Park, which sits on the Chetco River in a 200 year old myrtlewood forest. You may also enjoy camping or staying in a cabin rental and doing some fishing. Be sure to pick up a free brochure at the trailhead to help guide you to better understand the varied plant species you will see on the Redwood Nature Trail. Interpretive signs exhibit forest ecology, the redwood life cycle, fire history, wildlife, and botany. From the park, the Riverview Trail follows the Chetco 0.7 miles before crossing the road and entering the 1.2 mile Redwood Nature Loop. This is the furthest North that the redwood trees are located.

Redwoods can live a thousand years or more and are resistant to insects and disease. They never stop growing. Their name, Sequoia sempervirens, means "forever living" or "forever green". A typical redwood forest contains more biomass per square foot than any other area on earth, including the Amazonian Rainforest. At one time, they were found almost worldwide. Ferns crowd the ground beneath these magical trees. The Western sword fern is the most abundant and typical understory of the forest and can reach almost 4 feet tall, you definitely feel like you are in a fantasy world walking among ferns that are almost as tall as you are. They can be so thick in the forest that you can barely walk through them, there is a very tropical feel. Throughout the forest you will see myrtlewoods, tan oaks, huckleberries, and rhododendrons. You will also see strange knots growing on the sides of the redwood trees. These are burls, and can grow to be huge and very sought after by wood workers. Collecting these is against the law though. If you just can't get enough of the redwoods, venture about a half an hour south into Klamath, California where at the Trees of Mystery, and you can buy a burl to grow your own redwood tree! There, you can also soar among the treetops on the SkyTrail gondola ride and see these titans like never before! The ride lasts about 8-10 minutes and is a once in a lifetime opportunity to see the redwoods from above.

Near Klamath, California is where you'll find the famous drive through tree (*Update.....In 2017, this tree was toppled by a winter storm :( and said to have shattered upon impact). While you're in the area, stop in to the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park to see some of the largest Redwoods in existence. This is where you will find the largest coastal redwoods. There is an elk viewing area as well, where you can get some amazing photos. I just wouldn't get too close, they are still wild animals. Every time I visit the redwoods, I take memories with me that will be cherished forever. There's a feeling there that cannot be explained and must be experienced at least once in your lifetime. If you have never had the chance to see the redwoods in person, I hope that one day you will make this unforgettable trip.

Drive Thru Tree (on a previous trip)