#MyCalifornia: Afton Canyon Natural Area

The Grand Canyon of the Mojave doesn't look like much until you drive 3 miles off the pavement.

It's easy to miss the nondescript offramp leading to "The Grand Canyon of the Mojave" driving between Barstow and Vegas. Just before you get to Baker, CA, Afton Road doesn't exactly beckon.

An inauspicious sign harkening thee into the sandwastes!

150,000 years ago, the Mojave Desert was not a desert at all, but a land of lakes. The San Bernardino Mountains shed a constant flow of fresh water into today's city of Barstow via the mighty Mojave River.

The ancient trade route through the Mojave Desert.

At first, the river filled a huge freshwater lake with several lobes sprawling all across today's desert basin: Lake Manix. During this time in the Pleistocene, horses, camels, bison, apex predators, thunderbirds, waterfowl, and more swarmed the lush shores of Lake Manix...

Until one day about 18,000 years ago!

A tectonic shift occured, rupturing the lake's natural dam. A cataclysmic flood violently sculpted Afton Canyon in a mere weekend! Sedimentary layers dating back to primordial slime became instantly exposed. The marine layer blew away into Kelso Dunes. The mineral bounty dangles to this day for rockhounds.

Group camping mesa.

Nowadays, anyone can visit the canyon and slip $6 into the lockbox for the privilege of spending the night in one of the very decent developed campsites. There's a spigot for campers to refill their water, vault toilets, shade structures , picnic tables, bbqs, and firepits for all. Also, a great view of trains lighting up the 1920's steel bridge at all hours of the night!

Ever since the earthquake punctured Lake Manix and ripped open Afton Canyon, the Mojave River has flowed east towards Soda Lake and Zyzzyx. It's the 5th largest river in the continental United States! Most of its length flows underground, earning it the moniker "The Inconstant River" by Mormon propheteer Jedediah Smith. At Afton Canyon, however, the great Mojave hits bedrock, and rises to greet the surface.

Train bridge over the "first crossing" of the Mojave River.

Explorers beware! Do not attempt this "first crossing" without assessing whether or not your vehicle is equipped to handle it! This trip scared us because the water went well up to the hood, and when the wheels spun to grab some riverbed, the traction control seemed to cut off the engine! Luckily, @mattlovell knew to switch off traction control, and we safely navigated the 3-foot-plus water.

Deceptively serene, this water crossing can bog street vehicles down, and there is zero cellphone service!

Shovel-nose tests the waters for himself.

It's just a short drive following the railroad tracks before we arrived at the second crossing.

We parked here and hiked upstream to visit "The Caves," a pair of caves that could once upon a time accommodate a horse drawn wagon.

Marshy conditions on the way to The Caves.

@mattlovell standing in the entrance to the first cave.

Room with a view.

Cave number two.

The second cave is the larger one, and would be fun to camp in!

If you continue in this direction, you can explore Pyramid Canyon with its grey cliffs.

Instead, we returned downstream to the crossing just as another train showed up for its photo op.

Wildflowers are scarce in the fall, but not absent!

Flirting with deez asters.

A tiny bloom on a raggedy succulent.

Afton Canyon opens up into a stately parade of majestic edifices.

The Short Slot

Dramatic red and black pinnacles.

Mineral-rich.

Mining ruins on a vein of magnesite.

Catclaw Acacia and Mesquite trees cluster where the water drains down from the cliffs.

Nature's palette.

A pageant of mountains.

Home for the night

It was awesome exploring this red slot canyon. Here is a 10 minute video.

The window in the rock fills me with awe.

The sunset was magnificent.

And we topped the evening off with campfire steaks under the Milky Way.

My dog and I took a little wander in the crisp dawn.

After we tore down camp and ensured we had left no trace, we traveled further down Afton Canyon to another slot, otherworldly with its contrasting black and white.

Black lava rock tops white marine sediment.

Blooming burro bush.

A fascinating little plant that reminds me of a miniature Mesquite.

I find the zigzagging path of slot canyons irresistible and compelling.

This one terminates abruptly.

Contrasting red in the distance.

Afton Canyon is a rockhounding dream!

Last time we visited Afton, we were lucky enough to see a lot of Bighorn Sheep. Here's a quick clip of some crossing the road right in front of us!

The third railroad bridge signals the end of Afton Canyon and the beginning of Mojave National Preserve.

The Mojave Road extends beyond, all the way to the Arizona border.

Thanks so much for joining me on a visit to this extraordinary geological jewel. #MyCalifornia. My Mojave Dream.

Love,cat

@creationofcare

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