It seems that surfing and spending so much time with the nature alone, where you understand how small you are really develops a certain attitude and philosophical view to life. I feel you when you are saying that you must fight, but do not overestimate yourself as it is foolish, and one way or another you can not defeat mother Earth. By giving in just a t the right time you become stronger and next day you give it another try. I used to enjoy my chats with surfers while spending a winter in Bali. Most of them are such nice folks and laid back people, especially when on the shore as in the water many of them are fighters.