Better than mountains can be only mountains !

Finally, I have looked, sorted and classified all the sensations and pictures from the trip to the mountains. Generalized, it looked all as follows:

Location: Nepal, Sagarmatha National Park (Sagarmatha), trekking to the foot of Everest and then a less known route through the pass Cho La.
Type: hiking single standalone campaign.
The route and altitude: Lukla (2840) - Namche Bazaar (3440) - Feriche (4240) - Labuche (4910) - Mount Kala Patar (5550) - Labuche (4910) - Dzongla (4830) - pass Cho La (5368) - Machermo (4470) - Namche Bazaar (3440) - Pakding (2610) - Lukla (2840).

For those who know and understand: (!) Started in Lukla, I one day came to Namche (all said that this is not possible), then even one day before Feriche and as a result already on the fourth day of the journey was on Cala Patara . If we assume of Kathmandu, where the height of 1,300 meters, over the four days of vertical drop was 4250 meters.
Outcome: mountain sickness in acute form, terrible headaches, nausea, vomiting, complete loss of appetite (the first 6 days could not eat), a complete lack of sleep, hypothermia, exhaustion, swelling of limbs and face. On the seventh day - a sharp increase in vitality and energy, full satisfaction of the trip and life in general.

Why it was all necessary. I know that from the standpoint of mining experience and common sense it was almost madness. Experienced people do not. They go up into the mountains slowly pass acclimatization, trying to avoid any unpleasant consequences at an altitude of life. But I was conscious of it, and knowing about the headaches and nausea about (mountain sickness I have happened in the past), and about all the other difficulties. It was a deliberate shake the body and, if you like the person, from the stagnation and bad habits (such as the desire for comfort), the audit of internal reserves. And it worked! After the trip I feel an irresistible thirst for life, any food - kicks, any slightest convenience perceive with pleasure, any problems seem to be nonsense, not worthy of attention.

I do not advise anyone to repeat my experience, for it is mine and no one else. But to go this route (slowly and with acclimatization - as you advise in any travel agency) - thing to make at least once in your life! "Better than mountains can be only mountains" - it is an objective truth which can be challenged only never been to the mountains. The immensity of the universe, which are you the Himalayas, is not comparable with any other feelings in this life. Well, actually, Everest - top, even after seeing that, you realize that there is something to strive for in this life and the question "What am I living for?" Raises very serious (I'm not talking about her conquest!).

And for what you live? For the sake of sitting trousers in the office for a salary that you have enough to maintain comfort and safety of the imaginary life? For children, of whom you grow such as clerks, how are themselves? Do you have something to remember from your last beach holiday? You can be proud of, in addition to the regular certificate confirming that the device you know some nobody wants mechanism, invented in order to not think, and stupid to click on a button? You generally ask ever imagined such questions?
I ask myself. And that's why I'm going to the mountains, not on the beach, so I deliberately expose themselves to danger. It is in such places and such situations come the answers to all these questions.

But under the cut the first part of a photo essay about the places and situations where come the answers. Very, very many photos - and it's only a microscopic part of what I brought from the mountains :)

The first day of the journey. I even jauntily, and around more Tumult. These mountains ahead.

The village of Namche Bazaar - the last bastion of civilization on the way to the top . There is internet, electricity and Kazhe cafe with real espresso.

At the exit from Namche - Everest view point. Next Everest will not be visible to the very foot of the - the highest peak of the world hides behind the smaller brethren. Its main " defender " of cheloevecheskih eye - Mount Nuptse ( 7864 m ) .

Helicopters in the mountains ply back and forth all the time - many prefer to look at the mountains, is not particularly bothering . However, many expeditions going to climb , too, are thrown to the base camp ( of which there are many - near each vertex ) on the helicopter - a reasonable economy of forces before the more challenging.

The higher the mountain , the nature becomes poorer ...

And people colorful. However, I think that this woman is not so many years - the living conditions are very harsh and old age comes early .

At an altitude of 4000 meters there is still terraced agriculture. Here they grow potatoes and some other vegetables . Fields partition oneself off by fences made ​​of stones that are simply placed on top of each other without any cementing solution . Stones - it's the only thing here in abundance.

It occurs here even more "hot shower", but it is worth the pleasure is expensive , and the word "hot" does not correspond to reality . But above has even a sink with ice water is hard to find , I brushed my teeth , pouring water from a bottle yourself , and be healthy! Frankly , in 11 days I never took a shower , had not shaved , and washed his hands only twice . However, it does not matter , because viruses and bacteria at a height almost live - an official fact.

There comes a time when the roads as such no longer exists, there is only the direction .

More and more are beginning to fall plaques that relatives and friends of those killed here mountaineers and trackers are supplied and installed on the rocks. And sometimes, just write the names of the paint. Every year dozens of people die - from heart failure, pulmonary edema, by strokes. But the main cemetery, of course, Mount Everest. It is more than 300 dead climbers. Most are killed after the triumph - on the way back from the summit. The reasons are the same: swelling of the brain and lungs, heart. They are all well - since the twenties of the last century, when there were the first attempts of conquest of Everest, to the last, who died yesterday or even today. To carry out the bodies from Everest impossible - there will not rise up helicopters, and those who are not strong enough to carry someone else - it's just not physically possible. It's your life, and death is only in your hands - no rescue aid will not come any doctors you do not pump out. They are human beings too, and people have a limit of possibilities. While in the death zone (the official name), you can count only on themselves and their strength. So are they all in the permafrost (on the slopes of Mount Everest temperature is not above minus twenty degrees, and on top comes down to minus sixty), finding the final resting place there, where sought despite "the risk and excessive labor." And it really is the death that deserves respect. Certainly, it is better than "vodka and colds."



Because only lichen vegetation here. But not even they - only snow, ice and rocks .

Yellow tents - base camp a small peak of Lobuche East ( 6090 m . )

And the helicopter returning from the base camp after booting to a group of climbers .

My room in the village of Lobuche , where I spent two nights - double " suite " for me alone .

This kind of " hotel " on the outside

But out of the window - view of the birds, whose profile is very similar to Everest

And this is the last transition to Everest . Mountain Nupttse and the Khumbu glacier . He descends from the Mount Everest and contains literally millions of tons of ice , over the years the buried stones . Pictures do not convey a hundredth part of the greatness that it is a natural formation .

The same point , but in view of the other side. At the edge there is a caravan of yaks , carrying cargo to the village of Gorak Shep - the last town on the way to Everest .

Here it is - the Khumbu Glacier in all its glory .

And this is a view of the village of Gorak Shep and Mount Kala Patar (dark compactor hill of snow with small glades). It is with its breathtaking panorama of Everest and its surrounding are not minor sisters - Lhotse Mountain (. 8516 m) and Nupttse (. 7864 m) ascent to the mountain from the distance is less than a kilometer, enough flat, on a flat dirt trail, but it occupies two up to three hours. I overcame it for 1 hour and 45 minutes, but it was the most difficult climb of my life! Each step is so high kollosalnyh efforts and "heart is ready to run from the top of the chest" - the pulse surpasses all reasonable limits despite the fact that you walk very slowly, as weak 90-year-old.

Well, here it is - the reward for all the work - Everest in all its grandeur

However, I was not very lucky : Everest was visible only at the very beginning of the path to Kala Patar . By the middle of the magnificent panorama of the half it was covered by clouds , so that even a self-portrait has turned out more on the background of clouds ....

And closer to the top of Kala Patar and he covered the cloud and went pretty heavy snow , which was not seen was not that of Everest , and even trails . But closer to the descent from the mountain snow ended and the dirt trail turned into a dirt trail .

But in this picture , also made ​​from the mountain, visible Everest base camp - hundreds of tents on the Khumbu glacier . Every year hundreds of people trying to make the ascent . Many people do not reach up to the top - come back , some remain on the mountain forever. But the camp is growing every year .

Finally once the Khumbu Glacier . The length of these white ice cones - hundreds of meters .

Village Labuche . The second night . That's what took place almost all my free time in the campaign . In the second half of the day is always cloudy , snowing (high altitude ) or rain ( at altitudes lower ) , so the day's march ends in 2-3 hours of the day . People are very small, the room is very cold , there is nothing. You sit , wrapped in all the kind of things that have to think. It is very useful for the development of the soul , but it looks ... not really :) But come the answers to the major questions of life is worth it !