Hokkaido (part 1): Tokyo to Shakotan Peninsula

It was just a few short days ago that I decided to make a beeline for Oarai; the ferry port that wisks many a stressed-out Tokyoite off the main island of Honshu and up north to Hokkaido, Japan's northern most island – often referred to as 'Dekkaido' (the big open road).

As the ferry hugged the coast and the sun faded over the horizon, I finished off some work emails over a cold can of beer. Now, finally some time to ponder the upcoming trip. Hokkaido is such a big place. Where to head first?.... Then in came a text from a friend pedaling his way north (doing it the hard way). I figured if I stayed at Lake Toya the first night, I should make it to Shakotan Peninsula on the west coast the following afternoon, just round about where my cycling friend would likely be. And oh what a ride that would turn out to be!

This is Obon (or it was when I got to Lake Toya) so the campsite was fairly busy, but I found a little spot by the lake just a few meters from water. I faded off to sleep with the sound of gentle little waves lapping at the shore...

Up early, I packed and loaded everything on the bike [BMW F800GS – nice large cases that make traveling heavy a breeze]. First a quick clockwise ride around the lake, before heading up into the hills and on toward Mt.Yotei (the Fuji of Hokkaido). I was traveling at pace now, as I had Niseko in my sights. Niseko is a town virtually run by Australians (now in the summer as well as in the winter), so I knew there would be a decent coffee brewing and a fair chance of bacon and eggs. Pulling in a bit after eleven, I'd just missed breakfast, but thankfully the staff at the Green Cafe were super friendly and flexible, and magicians when it came to frying up eggs and brewing a nice strong coffee.

After lunch, I was all smiles. The Niseko Panorama Line is a must ride if you find yourself in the area. I made my way past Annupri, then north on some just stupendous twisties. Finally this awesome road spat me out at the coastal town of Iwanai; the gateway point to the Shakotan Peninsula. This is a region I haven't ridden before, but has come highly recommended. I was to follow the coast from here until basically I spotted my friend struggling his way to the cape head. There were a few too many tunnels here for my liking, but with sheer cliffs down to the water for much of the time, there was really no other way of making your way around the peninsula than by just digging a course through.

Just as Cape Kamui came into site, so did a guy on a bicycle. He'd almost beaten me to the cape, but not quite. The hike out to the headland was quite magnificent (very Scottish or Welsh-like). The bright blue skies had brought out the Korean and Chinese tourists, but the views were well worth the hike out to the cape head nonetheless.

Now it was time to find a campsite. I headed out first, and located a little sheltered bay. By the time my cycling buddy arrived it was nearly dark. A swim was followed by some yakitori, a beer or two, and some good conversation, before hitting the hay. I drifted off to sleep this evening to snores coming from the tent next door. He had cycled a long way, he was excused.

(to be continued)...