Off the Beaten Path: On the trail of Møn's secrets
Anyone who wants to hike is usually drawn to the Alps, to Nepal, to the famous Way of St. James, or at least to a famous long-distance hiking trail like the Swedish Kungsleden, which leads up to the North Cape.
The way is flat
But the real adventures await elsewhere, where there are no wandering hordes. Where the landscape is unknown, the travel guide is in a foreign language, and the hiking trail is often not even signposted. Denmark is not a traditional hiking country, but the Danish Baltic Sea island of Møn is famous for its chalk coast - and is also a wonderful hiking destination for the curious.
On the friendlies hiking trail
Under a sky full of birds
There is now also a hiking route on the Baltic Sea island that has been awarded top marks: The Camønoen is a 175-kilometer long circular route around the island of Møn, but also leads over the islands of Bogø and Nyord and has the beautiful title of “friendliest hiking trail in the Danish Kingdom.”
20 kilograms on the back
The morning on Nyord dawns with bright sunshine. The cows next door are bleating, making a soft wind rustle in the leaves of the trees. It smells like the sea, of course, because it is always around the visitors here. Already on this second day of hiking, it becomes clear: a hike around the Danish island of Møn is a fantastic way to experience the natural beauty and rich history of this enchanting region.
My shirt is drying
The lack of mountains
Nyord was certainly enchanting, although the journey there with a 20-kilogram load on our backs turned out to be an expected challenge despite the lack of mountains. Now there is no turning back, only moving forward. Even though the beginning of the hiking trail today leads back to where we passed yesterday.
No cars and bicycles
The bridge over to the larger island of Møn is the only way to get from the small island to the larger one. First comes the long road through the bird sanctuary. But then we turn left into the undergrowth. The Camønoen is hardly recognizable, the landscape is a poem: it goes directly along the seashore, on the right there is a light forest, horse pastures, and meadows. The path goes on and on, no one can be seen for miles.
Have a bath
Swarms of Mosquitoes
Suddenly a house appears with an older man and his wife standing in front of it. They look at us with a smile as we approach, waving our hands in the air because large swarms of mosquitoes have discovered us as the only victims they can reach.
Guenther Grass' house
Paul, who is the man, smiles. "Ahh, the mosquitoes," he curses. And hands us a spray, saying conspiratorially, "This is banned in Denmark because it works so well, we brought it especially from Norway."
Grass' way to the sea
Paul and his wife Frida let us in on the historical place we are currently in. In the middle of the picturesque landscape stands the small house of the Nobel Prize winner for literature, Günther Grass, a famous German writer who spent his summers here, all alone, busy writing his great works.
The writers room
Grass lived for many years in the German city of Lübeck, but also had a home on Møn, where he spent a lot of time when he could. The house, which is now a museum, offers an insight into the genius' life - everything inside is as it was when Grass left it before he died in Lübeck in April 2015.
A strange pearl of the Island
The mysterious Hotel
We continue through the nature reserve, the forest now on the right and left. Drawn to our attention by a nice woman who is walking her dog, we discover another pearl of the island, only this time one that is not just abandoned, but abandoned and forgotten.
The bath under the Hotel
The Hotel "Kongens" was once the first house on the square, a meeting place for the rich and famous. Today it is a ruin, half destroyed and still full of remnants of the great past.
The history is only a dream
Personnel files and invoices are lying around, newspapers and furnishings, even in the pool on the ground floor, there are mountains of garbage.
The backyard of the ruin
An impressive Lost Place that will soon be demolished, as the woman with the dog reveals. Behind it, nature takes over again with its diverse flora and fauna. There are especially plenty of mosquitoes!
On the beach
The beautiful beach of Ulvshale
The Møn Biosphere Reserve, which covers the entire island, is a UNESCO-designated area that protects the unique ecosystems here. Also, the flying pests. Finally, the forest recedes, and we stand on the beautiful beach of Ulvshale, a secluded and untouched sandy beach that is perfect for a relaxing holiday.
The water is clear, the sand is soft and white. Ideal for swimming, sunbathing, or simply enjoying the view. Moen Strand Camping is a paradise - ruled by the nice woman with the dog. It has everything a tired hiker needs: food and beer, a place for a tent, and the best tips for continuing hiking.
The beach seems endless
The variety of experiences can now sink in while your feet rest. It was a hike through nature, literature, and along the sea, with cows, horses, rabbits, and mosquitoes, a huge ruin, and the breathtaking natural beauty of the deserted biosphere reserve all around.
"Wild horses" (The Rolling Stones)
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