Talk about It#4: Chinese cuisine: Jian bing / 中国特色美食:煎饼

Jian bing, a crepe made from a batter of wheat and grain flour, is popular in north China, especially in Shandong province. It is made on a heated pan, with freshly scrambled egg, pickled vegetables, scallions, cilantro, black bean paste, chili sauce and a crispy fried crackers. It is a perfect choice for breakfast for on-the-go commuters and students.

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作为一个山东人,不写篇文章夸一夸大山东的煎饼实在对不起这么多年光顾的煎饼摊。煎饼据传起源于山东泰安,是山东乃至北方地区最受欢迎的街边小吃之一,但是最出名的要属临沂的煎饼。煎饼的特点就是薄而脆,口感好,经济实惠又撑肚子,不会很快消化掉,对勤劳淳朴的山东人民来讲,简直是标配。我也是在我妈长期的熏陶下开始吃煎饼的,实话讲,煎饼不是那种咬一口就能让人爱上的食物,要慢慢嚼,玉米面的香甜才能沁到嘴里,越吃越想吃,如果这时候再有根大葱,简直是人间美味啊。(我是不吃葱的,像我爸我爷爷之前那几辈的吃煎饼必卷葱)

在我小时候,家里会支锅自己摊煎饼,那时候煎饼是不加调料的:把调好的面糊均匀的摊在鏊子(可以理解成一个超大的平底锅,底下烧火)上,等个一分钟,用铲子翻个个,再加热一会,一个煎饼就出锅了。刚出锅的煎饼又薄又脆,散发着粮食的纯天然香气,入口即化,口舌生津。小时候的我只要看到家里开始摊煎饼了,就找个小凳子,在旁边坐着,眼巴巴看着煎饼出锅,然后抢过来吃掉~往往一天的头几个煎饼都是被我吃掉的,我妈也被我逗得边气边笑。

现在,很少有人在家里自己摊煎饼了,露天烧火很脏也很热,而且没有能摊煎饼的场所,就连摊煎饼的鏊子也当废品卖了,想吃直接去超市买点解解馋,也吃不到原来的味道了。街边的小吃街还有卖煎饼的,而且在原来的基础上又加入了各种调料,鸡蛋,豆瓣酱,甚至辣条,可能是现在人们的要求高了,再按原来那样清淡的口味就做不下去了吧。前几天去了一家煎饼的连锁,又发现了一些新的煎饼:牛肉煎饼,鳕鱼煎饼,鸡柳煎饼,肉松煎饼,煎饼的种类越来越多,也越来越美味了。

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可能人就是一种矛盾的生物,享受着现代舒适便捷的生活,又怀念过去淳朴有趣的时光,明知回不去了,心里还有些感伤,这就是成长为人的代价吧,

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