Mangal Ocakbasi great Turkish food in London

London is full of kebab shops. Some are good, some are passable, some are dire. (That's quite authentic; in Istanbul, too, some of the kebab shops are good, and some are not recommended for your patronage.)

Head to Stoke Newington and Green Lanes, though, if you want a full scale Turkish culinary experience.And head to Mangal Ocakbasi for just about the best grill you can get.

The great grill - basically a sort of long barbecue - seems to take up more space than the tables in this restaurant; it's the centrepiece of the dining experience. 'Mr Mangal' is a maestro, conducting his grill like an orchestra, moving pieces of meat around it to get the little frazzly hot-spots or put nearly done pieces on a less hot area to make them tender without burning; this is partly a spectator sport.

You don't even bother with a menu. Just look at the fridge cabinet with the skewers laid out, and pick the ones you want, then sit down and wait for your order to be cooked. Or rather, watch your order being cooked.

You'll get the 'normal' stuff of Turkish kebab - chicken, lamb (including huge lamb chops), various types of minced meat skewers. But you might also consider the quail, or if you like offal, kidneys and sweetbreads. Meat comes crisp or even a little charred on the outside, but meltingly soft inside. And the portions are massive.

The breads are what really distinguish a good Turkish place. I remember in Istanbul, we got rugby-ball sized breads, puffed up with air, and scattered with sweet sesame seeds, in our favourite eatery. Here, too, you'll get warm, fresh breads, not stale old pitta that could have come from Tesco's. Tangy salad or hummus, cacik (tzatziki for those of you who speak Greek) or aubergine puree (advisory: garlic included), accompany the carnivorous feast. Or try the patlican salata - auberine and peppers, grilled, and then tossed in yoghurt and topped with melted butter.

This is not fine dining. This is good, honest food served cheaply (difficult to spend much more than ?20 for two) and with no frills. But it is gooood honest food, a real adventure in eating.

One tip:Mangal Ocakbasi doesn't sell alcohol. But staff will not object if you bring your own bottles of beer or wine to drink with the meal. They don't charge corkage, either.

Where: 10 Arcola Street, E8 - jut off Stoke Newington Road

Downsides: if you're vegetarian, don't bother.