House of Hayden: Your Menswear Style Guide Series: #2 Jeans: The Ultimate Staple.
#2 Jeans: The Ultimate Staple
So, during our last session together we spoke about the basics. We covered the reasons you don't have style, and finding the perfect t-shirt.
Now, for those who have not read what the hell I'm talking about click here to catch up.
Jeans
Literally one of the most versatile staples in your closet. I cannot preach enough, this is one of the most important pieces in your wardrobe. They can either make or break the outfit. This will be one of the categories where I tell you to loosen up the purse strings and dig deep into your beer fund.
Cheap Fast Fashion Brands like H&M and Zara are made out of cheaper fabrics, and the denim department is where they start to pinch too many pennies (like you do on clothes in general).
Cheap jeans have no “give” (a slight stretch - nothing is worse than sitting down in jeans with no stretch and your knees feel like they are wrapped in saran wrap). Your balls won't breathe and they will die before you get any use out of them.
Fun Fact: H&M and Zara are called “Fast Fashion Brands,” because they mass produce current styles and trends. They are using cheaper materials to create a market for the average consumer. This gives you the access to styles that are similar to the high-end market, which makes these brands great for trends. (For those of you that want to look like Kayne, but without the price tag, check out zara.com or asos.com)
Now it is a bit intimidating, choosing the right pair of jeans (but don't be scared, I'll hold your hand). I mean - we have washes, cuts, colors, silly trends that repeat every ten years, and then for some reason, people put stuff on them.
To stay classic, we are going to skip trendy and just stick with what has always worked. Here are a few pictures I stitched together, just so you can see what NOT to do:
So we now know what is not acceptable; please burn accordingly (unless not getting laid is your thing). Let me show you what is acceptable:
photo credit
I'm sure he gets laid.
Measurements:
The only way to get the best fit is to know your measurements (if you read the last post, you'd already know that). Above is an excellent image of terminology and where to measure. This will help you decide what size to buy.
When you're in the store shopping for a size, the two numbers you usually see (“32x34” for example). The first number represents the waist, the second refers to the inseam. A lot of men I have styled in the past have been buying the wrong inseam size for far too long.
P.S. I swear to God, if you go to buy jeans and don't try them on, you might as well not buy them. Make returns a thing of the past; it saves time and money (except online, you can return as much sh*t as you want. #makesureitsfree ).
When measuring your inseam, it's important to go for a size that gives a quarter break or no break. A full break will look sloppy, so steer clear of that. Primermag has a great photo set to demonstrate pant breaks (for those of you that like the pictures).
P.S. If you can't see the differences, the break refers to a crease created in the pant. (ex. when there is no “break” there is no crease). This creates a tailored look.
After deciding on the proper inseam size for you, next up is waist size. My best advice to anyone buying jeans is to make sure the waist fits snug. Too tight and it will cause pain and discomfort. Too loose and it will cause pinching of the fabric, making you look like a fool. (You should just barely be able to fit your thumb in the waistband.)
You should never need a belt. The jeans should fit well enough that when you sit, your plumber's crack doesn't show. And when you stand, they don't slide down (yes, some men do not have asses. But this is no excuse).
Tip: If you have jeans that fit great in the waist but the length is a problem, (or vice versa) Bring them to a tailor. They can alter them for just a couple bucks (and this doesn't mean take all your old ugly jeans to get tailored. I suggest you start fresh).
Washes:
A “wash” is how the jeans are treated. “Denim Finish Treatments” (wash) refer to chemical and mechanical methods to create a finish on the jeans. These are ways to make jeans look like you already wore them in. Washes are great for following trends, but we aren't going for trendy.
We need something that's classic and looks great with everything.
Raw Denim vs. Selvedge Denim
This is why I prefer raw (and no, not like in a porno,) or selvedge (“self-edge”) denim. Yes, they are somewhat expensive, but if you invest in a couple pairs, you'll be set for a couple years. The cost-to-wear ratio is always worth it. I always say “Invest in yourself, and others will invest in you.”
Both Raw and Selvedge Denim have pros and cons, but the consistent pro is they are always untreated and unwashed. These jeans are a true indigo dye (generally) and will show your story, not one that was prefabricated for you.
Your wear and tear will create a personal history from these jeans. They are also great because a nice solid, mid-blue, jean will be the most versatile pair of jeans you own.
Raw:
Most types of denim are pre-washed to reduce color transference from the indigo dye, and soften the fabric. Raw denim simply hasn't been pre-washed. Thus providing a full colored jean, a clean slate.
They will be very stiff, to begin with, but after a few weeks of wear, they will be the perfect fit. My favorite pair of raw denim jeans came from a Joe's Jeans outlet in Palm Springs. It was the best $65 I've ever spent.
Selvedge:
It's the most classic, quality denim around. (This type generally does not get washed, although some brands may wash to soften up the fabric.) The name comes from the fabrication of the denim. When sent through the shuttle loom, the denim provides itself with a “self-edge”, as opposed to a frayed end. Every other type of denim will have a frayed end.
Tip: The best type of selvedge denim to get is Japanese Denim, but it can be very expensive. HIGHSNOBIETY has a great article on where to get selvedge denim for under $90 (for those of you that actually follow this advice).
Tip: Both types of jeans will have some color transfer. Either to your skin or your clothes, so be careful around lighter colors (this means if you go commando, your balls won't be the only thing that's blue).
The Rise
Another ingredient to consider in finding the perfect pair of jeans would be the “rise.” You will probably see jeans labeled as “high-rise” or “low rise” while shopping.
The rise is measured from the mid-crotch inseam to the waistband. For the average man, I would suggest a mid-rise jean. At the end of the day, it should look proportionate; taller-than-average people tend to wear a higher rise than someone who is shorter than average.
The Cut
Next, up we have the cut. The cut (or “fit”) refers to the shape of the pant leg.
(See inseam for your “third leg.” Please make sure you have enough space for the family jewels.)
Generally, a cut or style will refer to how the pant leg is cut. There are four main cuts that you'll see in any store; relaxed, straight, slim, and skinny cut.
Some images for the slow ones in the back.
Unless you are a lazy fool, then you won't buy a pair of “relaxed fit” jeans. They are just a big no-no. (Right next to bell bottom jeans.)
For the average man, I would suggest a slim or straight cut jean, with a mid rise. It hugs all the right areas and they tend to fit like a glove.
Straight leg will look great on men who tend to have thicker thighs and calves (all those leg days are finally paying off, bro). Skinny jeans are for those of you that are very small. Even then, I feel a slim cut with a mid-rise will always look great.
So you should be all set now, free to roam the halls of your closest mall, to find the best pair of jeans for you (and don't forget to look for a great basic t-shirt).
Check back for out next installment : "House of Hayden: Your Menswear Style Series: #3 Let's get some shoes."
If you are looking for more than just a guide, I also offer personal style consultation!
I can create a personal guide, based on your needs and body type, to find your perfect style! I will create virtual outfits for you, give you tips and hacks to stay on top of your style, forever!
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I had no idea there was so much to learn about jeans shopping!! Definitely going to go find myself a pair of raw jeans...
Great to hear! Thanks for reading!
When I read that relaxed fit jeans are a no-no, my initial reaction was "My dad wears mostly relaxed fit and he looks fine..."
Then I realized that's cause he's a dad in his 60s.
Not to say my dad dresses badly, my mom gets him great stuff all the time, but hes' certainly not the epitome of style. Would having Dad jeans be as much of an insult as having Mom jeans?
Well unless you going for that "Dad Bod" fad, then yes it's an insult. When I hear "dad jeans", it translates to ; "I don't need to look good, just be comfortable." Unfortunately, some men, just don't know that other cuts or styles will look better and be just as comfortable as relaxed fit. Look at this photo of Obama:
The relaxed fit just says I'm lazy (and no one likes lazy).
Don't get me wrong, he looks alright, but a slim fit pair of jeans would have done him way more justice.
Thanks for reading Alexbarkerart!
I wear mostly relaxed fit jeans, now I have to go throw out half of my wardrobe. Oh well, at least I'm not one of those guys who wears those terrible Ed Hardy jeans.