Mount Everest
Mount Everest, which is known as Nepal's Sagaramatha (Nepali: Sagarmatha) and Tibetan Chomolangma (Tibetan: ཇོ་ མོ་ གླང་ མ, Wiley: jo mo glang ma), is the highest mountain in the world. This hill is located in the Mahalangura Himalayan Mountains of the Himalayas. The height of the sea level is 8,848 meters (29,029 ft), but the peak distance from the center of the earth is not the highest. China and Nepal's international borders have reached the summit of Mount Everest.
In 1856, due to the great triangular allocation of India, the height of Mount Everest (which was then known as the mountain number 15) was 8,840 m (29,002 ft). In 1865, on the recommendation of India's Surveyor General Andrew Scott Wah, the Royal Geographical Society changed the name of Mount Everest of his predecessor George Everest to Mount Everest. In an Indian survey in 1955, the height of this horn was measured to 8,848 m (29,029 ft), which was confirmed in 1975 by a Chinese survey.
The British climbers first tried to climb this mountain. Since Nepal was banned from entering foreign territory at this time, the British tried to raid several times on the northern side of the mountain from Tibet in the direction of Tibet. In 1921, on the Mount Everest expedition, the British reached the height of 7,000 m (22,970 ft) from Tibet. After this, in 1922, they reached the height of 8,320 m (27,300 ft) in this way and established a new stage of human history. During this landing, seven merchants died due to snowfall. The most mysterious expedition in the history of climbing the Everest in 1923: George Mallorie and Andrew Irwin made a last attempt to climb the horn but failed to return, causing debate on whether their ascendancy was the first successful climb. In 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay won the first of these with the south-east ridges from Nepal. On May 25, 1960, Chinese climbers Wang Fuzhou, Gonpo and Chu Yinhua won the first horn with the North Rallyas.
Discovery as the highest mountain
In 1802, the British started great triangular all-rounds to identify the location and identity of the highest mountains in the world. Starting with this work from South India, the survey team carrying heavy heavy theodolite weighing 500 kg (1,100 feet) was advancing northward. In 1830, they reached the foot of the Himalayas, but Nepal was reluctant to grant the British access to their country in suspicion of political and colonial aggression. All the applications for the survey team's entry into Nepal were rejected. The British were forced to observe their observation from the Tarai parallel to the Himalayas in the south of Nepal. In the incidence of rain and malaria, three officers of the party died and two were forced to resign.
However, in 1847, the British carried out the perfect survey of the Himalaya from the observation station situated at a distance of 240 km (150 mi) from the high peaks of the Himalayas. However, due to the disastrous weather, the survey is going on for only the last three months of the year. In 1847, India's Surveyor General Andrew Scott Wah made some significant observations from the Sawazpur station on the eastern side of the Himalayas. At that time, Kanchenjunga was considered as the highest mountain in the world, but he noticed a high peak at a distance of 230 km (140 m) from Kanchenjunga. Almost at the same time, one of his staff, John Armstrong, also noticed this peak from the west and called it peak-b. Wah later commented that although observations were being understood that peak-b was better than Kanchenjunga, nevertheless it was necessary to have a need to be closer to the place for proof. The following year, he sent an officer to the Terai region for further observation from the horn, but the cloud did not become possible to conduct surveys.
In 1849 Wah sent James Nicholson there. Nicholson recorded two surveys from Zirol, 190 km (120 meters) away. Then Nicholson traveled east with the largest theodolite, completing more than thirty observations from five different places, among which the closest to Everest was 174 km (108 mi) away. Then he returned to Patna and started accounting with the data obtained from the observation. From its draft data, he calculated the height of peak-b at 9,200m (30,200 ft), but it was determined to ignore the errors of refraction of light. Nevertheless, this draft accounted that the height of peak-b is more than that of Kanchenjunga. Unfortunately, Nicolson was infected with malaria at that time and was forced to return to the country after his accounting was unfinished. At the time a colleague of Michael Hennessee Andrew Scott Waugh started publishing the mountains in Roman numerals, and according to that the new name peak-b is peak-XV (horn number 15).
In 1852, at the headquarters of the city of Dehradun, Bangali mathematician and observer Radhanath Sikdar Nicholson first measured the trigonometric calculation from the size-joke to the highest peak in the world. Due to attempts to confirm the calculations repeatedly over the next few years, it is delayed to officially announce. W.H. and his staff continued to perform counting for the next two years, and continued efforts to solve problems of reflection of the atmosphere, atmospheric pressure, and temperature differences due to horn distance from the observation. Finally, in March 1856, he gave his decision by letter to the assistant of Calcutta. He concludes that because of the height of this horn, which is 8,839.2 m (29,000 ft), this horn is probably the highest peak in the world. The height of this horn is publicly reported 8,839.8 m (290000 ft).
Naming
Although Survey was planning to name the mountain names locally, but Wah said that he could not find any local name on the number 15. Tibet and Nepal are not open for foreigners and their local name searches are interrupted. But there were a number of local names on this mountain, such as Deodhunga or holy mountain in Darjeeling region, Chomolangma, which is present in Tibet. The name Chomolangma was in a map published in 1733 in Berlin by French encyclopedia Bourgegnon d'Annville in Paris, in the French geographical district of Baptiste. Gaurishankar, the local name of this mountain, was considered by some European map experts in the late nineteenth century, which is a mountain horn between Kathmandu and Everest.
Wah argued that because of the many local names, it would not be appropriate to put a name, that is why he recommended the name of this horn in the name of his predecessor Surveyor General George Everest. George himself was opposed to his name and he told the Royal Geographical Society that Everest's name could not be written in Hindi and Indians could not pronounce it. In spite of this, the highest peak in the world is named after him, Mount Everest. The modern pronunciation of Everest (/ ɛvərɨst / o / ɛvrɨst /) is different from George's commentary (/ iːvrɨst /, EEV-rist).
Mount Everest in Tibet is written by Joe-Mo-Glang-Ma (ཇོ་ མོ་ གླང་ མ; IPA: [t͡ɕʰòmòlɑŋmɑ]; Holy Mother), whose official Tibetan Pinyin form is Chomolangma. The official Chinese transcription of this name is 珠穆朗玛峰 (珠穆朗瑪峰), whose pinyin form is sometimes referred to as Shanmu Feng (聖母 峰, 圣母 峰, "Holy Mother's horn") in the Zhomolangma Feng language in Chinese. In 2002, an article published in People's Daily, People's Daily against the name of this horn named Mount Everest. In this article, the name of this horn is named as Chomolangma, according to local Tibetan name. It is argued that British colonists did not discover this horn first, but it was known to many Tibetans before this horn, and China maped this horn as Chomolangma in 1719 AD. In the beginning of 1960, the Nepalese government named it a Nepali named Sagaramatha.
Successful missions
Early adventures
In 1855, Alpine Club President Clinton Thomas Dent commented on his book Above the Snow Line that climbing Mount Everest is possible.
George Mallorie discovered the way to climb Everest from North to the time of his 1921 campaign. The operation was essentially a search operation, it was not necessary for the group to go to the summit. Under the leadership of Melroto (who became the first European in this mission to become the first European in the footsteps of the Everest), the group climbs 7,007 m (22,989 feet) in the northern slopes. Mallory planned a possible route to get to the top, but its tourists were not ready for such an adventurous adventure. So he returned to the service.
The British returned to the Himalayas in the 1921 campaign. In this, George Finch used the oxygen for the first time to climb the mountain. The speed of its climb was amazing - about 950 feet (290m) in the hour. He rose to 8,320 meters (27,300 feet), which was the first to climb up to 8,000 meters high. Malory and Colonel Felix did a failed operation for the second time. The group led by Maloori was hit by landslides after the northern cliffs and seven coolies were killed.
The next operation was in 1924. The initial efforts of Mallory and Bruce have to be postponed when Camp VI is impossible due to bad weather. Run the next attempt Norton and Somerville, they raid without oxygen cylinders and get excellent weather conditions, from North Face to Great Kouloue. Norton traveled 8,558 meters (28,077 feet), although in the last hour he was just like 100 feet. Mallory organized an Everest campaign as soon as possible to gather oxygen equipment. Now he took the young Andrew Andrew as a partner. On June 8, 1924 George Mallory and Andrew Arving started the mission of conquering the Everest-Peak with the North Gorge. They did not come back from this campaign. 1999 Mallory and the Urvic Research Expedition found Malory's body in a snow cloth on the west side of camp-VI, below the North Face. There are many debates in climbing societies about whether they were able to climb before the first victory of Hillary and Tenzing in 1953 on the summit of two Mount Everest.
In 1952, a Swiss explorer team, led by Edward Wies-Dunant, got permission to try to climb Everest with Nepal. The group establishes a route through Khumbu iceflow and climbs 7,986 meters (26,201 ft) of the southern canyon. Raymond Lambert and Sherpa Tenzing moved up to 8,559 meters (28,199 feet) south-east of Ridge, in Norg, which was the new record of people climbing in height. This experience of Tenzing was helpful in working with the British explorer team in 1953.
First successful climb without helpful oxygen
On May 8, 1978, Peter Hebber of Austria and Reinhard Heathner of Italy successfully completed the summit of Everest without the first oxygen.
Miscellaneous Records
On June 16, 1975, the first woman to climb the summit of Mount Everest was credited to Japan's Juneau Tabaei.
Sherpa Nwang Gumbu was able to reach Everest on the first two occasions. He achieved this record on 20 May 1922. He first summoned Everest in an American expedition in 1963 and in 1965 an Indian campaign.
As the first disabled, Tom Whitaker of the US rose to the summit of Everest in 1998. Even with an artificial foot, he surprised the world by conquering Everest.
Nepal's Apa Sherpa won the Everest for most of the time. From May 10, 1990 to May 11, 2011, he has reached the summit of Mount Everest 21 times. As a non-Sherpa, this record holds the record of American climber and adventure driver Dav Hahan. He has won Everest 14 times from May 19, 1994 to May 26, 2012.