Daily Celestial Challenge / Mavericks: The Largest Waves in the World
Mavericks: The Largest Waves in the World
On this day of forces of nature, I want to talk about one of the biggest waves in the world called Mavericks. If you watched the movie "Chasing Mavericks" by Gerard Butler you'll know what I'm talking about ... The mavericks are giant waves that form during the winter season at Half Moon Bay beach in north of San Francisco, California that measure between 2 to 15 meters high and have a distance of about 300 meters.
The Mavericks are generated by an underwater reef that causes the water to compress and rise at high altitude. Its strength and the sharp rocks of the underwater reef make it a wave only for experts. In fact, Mavericks has claimed the lives of several surfers, the most tragic being the mythical surfer Mark Foo in 1994. The first to ride these types of waves was the surfer Jeff Clark in the 70s. This type of waves was surfed by a few until in the 90s when it became famous.
For those who have not had the opportunity to practice surfing, they may not know the magnitude and danger of trying to ride these types of waves. One of the key parts of surfing is the paddle you must have to be in a position within the wave that allows you to ride it. To surf a maverick you must go at least 50kph to reach the wave, and descend from the ridge with a huge amount of water behind you. If you fall you can hit the reef or you are drowned by the wave.
Surfers must train to have the physical and psychological conditions to face these waves; the surfer must have clear how to act in cases and how to leave the site in case of emergency. The tossing of a giant wave can keep you long underwater and the impact against the water and the turbulence can reduce the volume of air contained in the lungs by up to 75%.
That is why these daredevils need practice yoga and apnea to increase lung capacity, oxygen absorption and gas exchange, as well as to be more relaxed and to decrease the metabolic reactions derived from the increase in CO2 concentration and lack of oxygen.
Surfers needs to be prepared to endure 3-4 minutes underwater so that the day so they can be calm and hold at least 1 minute without problems. I don´t know if you read this news but the actor Gerard Butler almost drowned while filming the movie Chasing Mavericks in 2011. In an interview with Monday's Good Morning America, he explained how he was paddling on his board to catch a wave when he wiped out. A giant wave fell on his head leaving him under water for at least a minute. Butler's fall was recorded on video and you can see how two waves hit him. The actor explains that:
'I was down for that wave and I was down for a long time just turning, turning and then the next wave came over and I started to think' Wow, I'm going to die making a movie. '
These giant waves can be found in Mullaghmore (Ireland), Jaws and Pipeline (Hawaii), Nazaré (Portugal), Shipstern (Tasmania), Tehupoo (Tahiti), Meñakoz (Basque Country, Spain), La verdad (Asturias, Spain) but The Mavericks have earned a bad reputation by passing the years that make them legendary.
This shows us one of the manifestations of force that can have the ocean that for some can be frightening but for others an adrenaline rush. What do you think?
Thanks to @sirknight for the #celestialchallenge.
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Surfing gives you a lot of self-control to face the challenges that day to day. That is why I have always considered that people who practice this type of discipline, usually take the challenges of life with much more optimism always looking over these.
Wanting to surf a wave is not something that should be taken so lightly, since you must consider many influential factors, the wind, the force with which this wave will strike if you fall, but also the inner peace and spiritual growth when you manage to assemble it, maintain yourself and get away with that great wall that you decided to face.
Life and our environment are that. Giant waves that we must face and although that wave swallows us, remember that we must always come out and try a million times if necessary, but never give up.