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Completely agree! 2003 you say? You'd be surprised how much it changed. I was there the first time in 1990, right after the borders opened. Still had to stand in line for some bottled water and the restaurants ran out of beer... in Prague, of all places!! We had exchanged the then equivalent of some 30$ and could not spend that in a day, and hardly anything was renovated.

Today its almost too crowded, but we know our little secret places by now and still discover something new, every time we go there.

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